Bitter Melon and Potato Stir-Fry

Frozen shredded hash browns are the secret to getting this Bangladeshi staple on the table in a flash.

Serves
6–8
Time
35 minutes

PHOTO: MURRAY HALL • FOOD STYLING: ANIKAH SHAOKAT

Published on April 11, 2026

“Bitter melon has gotten bad PR for ages, even among those who grew up with it,” says food writer Anikah Shaokat. “In fact, I was the only kid I knew who couldn’t get enough of this craggly gourd.” Her favorite preparation is a Bangladeshi staple: bitter melon stir-fried with onions and potatoes and gently spiced with turmeric, coriander, and cumin. The key is to soak the gourd in salted water, which helps to temper its sharp bitterness, and pair it with starchy potatoes (Shaokat uses frozen shredded hash browns for convenience), which brings its vegetal flavors forward.

There are two main varieties of bitter melon: Chinese and Indian. The Chinese variety is a lighter green, more tender, slightly larger, and less bumpy than its Indian counterpart. If you’re using the Chinese variety for this recipe, reduce the amount of melons to two and slice them a little thicker than ⅛ inch.

Featured in “Reclaiming Bengali New Year in New York.”

Ingredients

⅔ cup vegetable oil
2 green Indian or Thai chiles, split lengthwise from the base almost to the tip
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh ginger
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground turmeric
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 Indian bitter melons (about 12 oz.), cored and sliced into ⅛-in. half-moons
4 cups (12 oz.) frozen shredded hash browns
½ cup cilantro leaves and tender stems, coarsely chopped

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Instructions

Step 1

To a large skillet or wok over medium heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the chiles and onion and cook until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the coriander, cumin seeds, ginger, salt, turmeric, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is golden and the spices are aromatic, about 1 minute.

Step 2

Turn the heat to high. Add the bitter melons and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on the edges and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the hash browns and continue cooking, stirring occasionally until soft and slightly browned, about 5 minutes more.

Step 3

Turn off the heat, sprinkle with the cilantro, and cover. Set aside for 5 minutes, then serve.

To a large skillet or wok over medium heat, add the oil. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the chiles and onion and cook until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the coriander, cumin seeds, ginger, salt, turmeric, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is golden and the spices are aromatic, about 1 minute.
Turn the heat to high. Add the bitter melons and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned on the edges and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the hash browns and continue cooking, stirring occasionally until soft and slightly browned, about 5 minutes more.
Turn off the heat, sprinkle with the cilantro, and cover. Set aside for 5 minutes, then serve.