Issue 148 | Saveur

Foolproof Fettuccine

Ben Mims — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:57 +0000

Rachael Grossman takes her homemade dough and cuts it into manageable pieces. Using a hand-crank pasta-rolling machine, she passes the dough through the rollers repeatedly, decreasing the thickness each time, until she has sheets of pasta that are about 1/16" thick (the 5 on a pasta machine) and smooth. Todd Coleman

If our salute to the food carts of Portland, Oregon (see Food of the People), taught us anything, it’s that cooking in a scaled-back kitchen doesn’t have to mean cutting corners. Rachael Grossman at the cart Artigiano wowed us with her method for making fresh fettuccine. Allowing the pasta to dry out before slicing it prevents sticking, makes for easy cutting, and yields noodles that retain their shape and bite during cooking.

See the instructions in the gallery »
See the recipe for Fettuccine with Heirloom Tomatoes »

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Pissaladière

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:44 +0000

Thomas Payne

This southern French tart takes its name from pissalat (or pissala), a pungent anchovy paste that gives the flatbread its distinctive flavor. Here, oil-packed anchovies are melted into the caramelized-onion topping.

Featured in: This Savory French Tart Is an Excellent Excuse to Drink Rosé Year-Round and The Road to Paradise

Equipment

Makes: serves 12

Time: 3 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

1 package (¼ oz.) active dry yeast
3 cups all-purpose flour (15 oz.), plus more for dusting
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
20 oil-cured anchovies, drained and finely chopped
12 medium yellow onions (5 lb.), thinly sliced lengthwise
4 sprigs thyme
2 sprigs rosemary
2 bay leaves
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup pitted, halved black olives

Instructions

Make the dough: Whisk together the yeast and 1 cup water, heated to 115°F, in a large bowl; set aside until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add the flour, ¼ cup oil, and salt; stir until a dough forms; transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, make the topping: Heat the remaining ½ cup oil in a 6-quart saucepan over medium-low; add the anchovies and cook, stirring, until dissolved in the oil, about 7 minutes. Add the onions, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaves, season with salt and pepper, and cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until reduced and softened, about 1 hour; uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid evaporates and the onions are golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the herbs; let cool.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Uncover the dough and transfer to a lightly floured work surface; using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12-by-18-inch rectangle. Transfer to a greased 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet, then cover evenly with the onion mixture; place the olives decoratively over the top. Loosely cover with plastic wrap and set aside until the dough is puffed, about 1 hour. Bake until the tart is golden brown at the edges, about 20 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into squares to serve.

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Sopa de Caranguejo (Crab Soup)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:56 +0000

Teeming with sweet shredded crab meat, this annatto- and cumin-flavored soup is a traditional soup in Soure, on Marajo island in northeast Brazil. James Oseland

Teeming with sweet shredded crab meat, this annotto and cumin-flavored soup is a traditional soup in Soure, on Marajo island in northeast Brazil. This recipe first appeared in our June/July 2012 issue along with Neide Rigo’s story Passage to the Amazon.

Teeming with sweet shredded crab meat, this annatto- and cumin-flavored soup is a traditional soup in Soure, on Marajo island in northeast Brazil. James Oseland

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1″ pieces
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ Italian or cubanelle pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
1 plum tomato, cored and finely chopped
1 lb. backfin or lump crab meat
1 tsp. ground annatto seed (available at The Great American Spice Company)
1 tsp. ground cumin
3 ½ cups chicken stock
3 tbsp. minced culantro or cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Place potato in a 2-qt. saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium, and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and mash potato; set aside.

2. Heat oil in a 4qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, and cook, stirring, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and pepper, and cook, stirring, until soft, about 3 minutes. Add tomato, and cook until liquid evaporates and mixture is lightly caramelized, about 4 minutes. Add reserved mashed potato, crab, annatto, and cumin, and stir to combine; add stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring, until crab is heated through, about 5 minutes. Add culantro and juice, and season with salt and pepper before serving.

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To Market

Nidhi Chauahry — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:47:28 +0000

This classic Provençal spread made with black olives and cured anchovies gets a chewy texture and sweet flavor from the addition of dried Black Mission figs. Landon Nordeman

The markets along Route 7 are some of the best places to experience local delicacies and witness the transformation of flavor as the road progresses from north to south. In Lyon, the Marche Saint Antoine overflows with hearty charcuterie, such as andouillette (pork tripe sausage), and rich cheeses, like cervelle de canut, a seasoned fromage blanc. In Aix-en-Provence, the market on Place des Precheurs is steeped in the smells and tastes of the region, with items like garlic, lavender, local olives and olive oil, and starting in July, fragrant melons grown in nearby Cavaillon. Mediterranean flavor is in full force at the Marche Cours Massena in Antibes, and the market at Cours Saleya, up the coast in Nice. Both offer tapenade, preserved lemons, anchovy paste, and more. At the end of the road is Les Halles at Quai de Monleon in Menton, where prepared local dishes, like pan bagnat (nicoise salad on an olive-oil-drenched bun) and barbajuan (Swiss-chard-and-spinach-stuffed pastry), are especially good.

Back to Route 7: The Road to Paradise »

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Flavors of the Amazon

James Oseland — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:40 +0000

Shopping for the recipes in this issue’s story on Marajo, Brazil (“Passage to the Amazon,”), our test kitchen staff was able to find all of the necessary ingredients—or close analogues that make fine substitutes—at Asian, Latin American, and Caribbean grocery stores and websites. Having fallen in love with the bold, wild flavors of this part of Brazil, it’s great to know that I can re-create them here at home.

Alfavaca (farthest left), a kind of basil used widely on Marajo, has a lemony, grassy flavor; we found that both Thai and lemon basil made perfect substitutes. Culantro (flat leaves, third from left), widely available at Latin American markets, is a favorite herb on Marajo, where it’s used in fish, chicken, and duck dishes, as well as virtually every stewed dish, usually in tandem with alfavaca and cilantro (second from right), another herb that grows in abundance on the island. A riot of chiles lend flavor and heat to Marajoaran cooking: The perfumed, sweet, slender, light-green pepper known as murupi or pimenta de cheiro doce (“sweet-smelling chile;” top of board) is widely used in savory dishes, typically sauteed along with garlic and onion to create a flavorful base for sauces for meat and fish. You can substitute Italian frying peppers (available from The Chile Woman) for the pimenta de cheiro doce. Sweet limao rosa (pink limes; below the chile) are juiced to create a tangy marinade for fish and crabs; key limes (available from Melissa’s) have a similar acidity and are a good proxy. Cadmium-red annatto (often sold in this country as achiote) is mixed with water to make urucum liquido (liquid annatto; in the right bowl), which imparts a peppery, earthy flavor to everything from beans and rice to sumptuous cheese and pasta casseroles. Look for whole annatto seeds, available from the Great American Spice Company, or in Latin American and Caribbean grocery stores and pulverize them in a spice grinder before using. Avoid prepared achiote pastes, which often include other ingredients that interfere with the flavor of the annatto, like oregano. Little-known outside of the Amazon, cipo d’alho, or garlic bush (Mansoa alliacea; farthest right ), has broad leaves that smell like bacon. You won’t find the leaves at grocery stores, but tropical plant stores (such as Top Tropicals) sell the seeds and plants. Of course, for some things, you still have to travel. One of the most ancient ingredients in the Amazon is tucupi (in the left bowl), made from the cooked juice of fermented cassava that’s a by-product of the elaborate process for making cassava meal. Ranging in color from pale yellow to deep goldenrod with a flavor that’s pure umami, the liquid is enriched with chiles and added to a variety of fish, shrimp, and poultry dishes, and is also used as a base for fiery, chile-spiked stews.

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Guam-Style Chicken With Red Rice (Tininon Mannok Yan Hineska’ Agaga)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:16 +0000

Marinated with the traditional Guam-style sauce finadene, a blend of cane vinegar, soy sauce, and aromatics, this succulent grilled chicken is served with annatto-tinged red rice at the cart PDX 671. Todd Coleman

Marinated with the traditional Guam-style sauce finadene, a blend of cane vinegar, soy sauce, and aromatics, this succulent grilled chicken is served with annatto-tinged red rice at the food cart PDX 671 in Portland, Oregon. This recipe appeared with the story Food of the People.

Makes: serves 8

Ingredients

3 cups soy sauce
1 ¹⁄₂ cups cane vinegar
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced, plus 1/3 cup finely chopped
2 ¹⁄₂ lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup thinly sliced scallions
2 ¹⁄₂ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
2 ¹⁄₂ cups jasmine rice
2 tbsp. ground annatto seeds (available at The Great American Spice Company)

Instructions

To make the marinade, combine 2 cups soy sauce, vinegar, pepper, sliced onion, and 1 cup water in a large bowl; add chicken and cover bowl with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight to marinate.
Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce: Stir together remaining soy sauce and chopped onion with lemon juice, scallions, chile flakes, and 1⁄2 cup water; set aside.
To make the red rice, combine rice, annatto, and 5 cups water in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat; reduce heat to medium-low and cook, covered, until rice is tender, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep rice warm.
Build a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or heat a gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat.) Cook chicken, turning, until browned, about 8 minutes. Serve with rice and dipping sauce, on the side.

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Garlic and Dill Fava Bean Salad (Bagula)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:44:16 +0000

Cumin and lemon bring a smoky and tart savoriness to this classic Egyptian bean dish. Todd Coleman

Cumin and lemon bring a smoky and tart savoriness to this classic Egyptian bean dish from Aladdin’s Castle Cafe in Portland, Oregon. This recipe first appeared in our June/July 2012 issue along with Dana Bowen’s story Food of the People.

Makes: serves 4-6

Ingredients

1 lb. small dried fava beans, soaked overnight
¹⁄₄ cup olive oil
3 tbsp. minced parsley
3 tbsp. minced dill
1 tsp. ground cumin
4 cloves garlic, mashed into a paste
Juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions

Drain beans and place in a 4-qt. saucepan, cover with water by 2″, and bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until tender, about 50 minutes.
Drain beans, and transfer to a bowl; add oil, parsley, dill, cumin, garlic, juice, and salt and pepper; let sit for 30 minutes to meld flavors before serving.

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Peach Melba Pie

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:06 +0000

This summery pie can be made any time of year by substituting frozen, thawed raspberries and peaches for fresh fruit. Todd Coleman

The classic combination of peach and raspberry won Minnesotan Jean Peno a blue ribbon for her scrumptious pie. This recipe first appeared in our June/July 2012 issue along with Jane and Michael Stern’s story Fair and Square.

Makes: serves 8

Ingredients

FOR THE CRUST:

3 cups flour
1 tbsp. sugar
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
1 cup plus 2 tbsp. vegetable shortening, cubed and chilled
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled
1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1 egg, lightly beaten

FOR THE FILLING:

²⁄₃ cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
¹⁄₃ cup flour
¹⁄₄ cup packed light brown sugar
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp. peach schnapps
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. cinnamon
¹⁄₂ tsp. ground ginger
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
¹⁄₄ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
6 large peaches (about 1 3/4 lb.), peeled and cut into 1/2″-thick slices
1 cup mashed fresh raspberries
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed

Instructions

Make the crust: Whisk together flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl; add shortening and butter, and rub them into the flour until pea-size crumbles form. Make a well in center of flour mixture; add vinegar, egg, and 6 tbsp. ice-cold water. Using a fork, stir until dough forms. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead to combine; form dough into a ball; halve, and form each half into a disk. Wrap disks in plastic wrap; refrigerate for 1 hour.
Make the filling: In a large bowl, toss together sugar, flour, brown sugar, juice, schnapps, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, salt, nutmeg, and peaches; set aside. Heat oven to 425°. Roll one dough disk into a 12″ circle; fit into a 9″ pie plate. Pour half the filling into pie shell and cover with raspberries. Pour in remaining peach filling, and then dot filling with butter. Roll the remaining dough disk into a 12″ circle, place over filling, and trim dough, leaving a 1⁄2″ overhang. Lift edges and fold under to form a thick rim around the pie. Cut 4 slits in top of pie crust, and sprinkle with more sugar. Bake until golden brown and filling is bubbling in the center, about 45 minutes. Let cool for about 20 minutes before serving.

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Iraqi Stuffed Onions (Dolma Mahshi)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:38 +0000

Pomegranate molasses, coriander, and curry powder perfume the filling for these tender stuffed onion rolls. Todd Coleman

Pomegranate molasses, coriander, and curry powder perfume the filling for these tender stuffed onion rolls from Aladdin’s Castle Cafe. This recipe first appeared in our June/July 2012 issue along with Dana Bowen’s story Food of the People.

Makes: serves 6-8

Ingredients

2 cups jasmine rice
1 cup finely chopped parsley
¹⁄₂ cup olive oil
¹⁄₃ finely chopped cilantro
¹⁄₄ cup pomegranate molasses
¹⁄₄ cup tomato paste
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. curry powder
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 large white onions
1 cup chicken stock
1 14-oz. can whole, peeled tomatoes in juice, pureed
2 tsp. ground sumac, plus more to garnish
Greek-style yogurt, to serve

Instructions

Make the stuffing: Combine rice, parsley, oil, cilantro, pomegranate molasses, tomato paste, cumin, coriander, curry powder, salt and pepper, and 1 1⁄2 cups water in a bowl; let sit until the rice begins to soak up some of the liquid, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, trim the tops and bottoms from onions and peel outer layer; place in a 6-qt. saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook until onions are tender to the core, about 30 minutes; drain and let cool.
Cut each onion halfway around the side and peel off each whole layer to get about 4 to 5 large layers each. Stuff each layer with 2 tbsp. stuffing and roll up into a football-shaped roll; place rolls in a single layer in a 9″ x 13″ baking dish. Pour stock and tomatoes over rolls and sprinkle with sumac; season with salt and pepper.
Heat oven to 375°. Bake until filling is cooked through and sauce is reduced around rolls, about 1 hour. Divide rolls among serving plates and sprinkle with more sumac; serve with the yogurt.

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Homegrown Hot Dogs

Kellie Evans — Tue, 02 Jul 2013 20:30:00 +0000

Hot dogs, whether tucked in a bun at the ballpark or served on a stick at the state fair, are a great American summertime tradition. Fierce regional loyalties still shape the hot dog business: Many of the dogs produced in this country are made by local, often family-owned businesses, and flavors and styles vary widely from place to place. From North Carolina’s peppery red skinless franks to Oregon’s salami-like beef-and-pork dogs, from garlicky weiners made in Pennsylvania from a 1939 recipe to Coney Island’s famously snappy franks, we love them all. For Independence Day, show off your regional patriotism and order a case of hot dogs from your home state to serve at this year’s barbecue.

See 31 regional hot dogs in the gallery »

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Solstice Snack

Joy Hui Lin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:38 +0000

See the Recipe. Todd Coleman

Knackebrod, or crispbread, has been part of the Swedish diet since antiquity. It is said that the Vikings ate the nutty rye flour cracker: It’s nutritious and nearly unperishable. Traditionally, it is baked with a center hole for drying on a wooden pole, and its grooves, which help it cook evenly, are created by a stud-covered rolling pin. Swedes eat crispbread often, but it’s especially popular on Midsummer’s Eve paired with pickled herring and a shot of strong drink.

See the recipe for Knackebrod »

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