I developed the Wise Guy last holiday season and since then it has become one of my go-to winter drinks. Spicy, bold, and aromatic, the spiced coffee old fashioned is smooth enough to sip at a slow pace, so go with a “bottled in bond” rye or a premium, high-proof rum. Flavored with allspice, cinnamon, and clove, pimento liqueur (aka allspice dram) was a popular ingredient in 18th century punches. The best examples are those based on pot-still Jamaica rum, such as Hamilton Pimento Liqueur.

Featured in: “How to Add Coffee to Your Cocktails.”

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During the 1980s and ‘90s craft cocktail revival, Dick Bradsell was a bar consultant working in the U.K., where he contributed a few of the era’s most influential cocktails to the modern bartender’s repertoire. Most notable among them: the classic espresso martini. Bradsell originally served the drink, which he called the “vodka espresso,” on the rocks. I suggest trying the drink both up and on ice to see which you prefer.

Featured in: “How to Add Coffee to Your Cocktails.”

Optional Variations:

Sweetness: if you prefer a sweeter build, add ¼– ½ ounce simple syrup.
Spirit: Try swapping out the vodka for tequila, rum, Cognac, or even gin. 
Balance: If you like, add a few drops of a fourth ingredient for bitterness or brightness, such as an amaro or fruit liqueur.

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Popular in Spain, Mexico, and elsewhere throughout Latin America, the carajillo is a drink born of the people as opposed to having been created in a bar. The simple template leaves a lot of room for variations according to products available and personal taste. Traditionally, equal parts coffee or espresso are combined with a spirit or liqueur, be it rum, brandy, or an herbal liqueur such as Licor 43. The result is a bracing pick-me-up that balances both stimulating and calming effects on mood, mind, and body.

Featured in: “How to Add Coffee to Your Cocktails.”

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Coffee cocktails are nothing new. Recipes featuring the invigorating brew date back to the late 19th century. In the early days, at least one of the first to appear in print contained no coffee at all: Jerry Thomas’s Bartending Guide (1867) included a “Coffee Cocktail” recipe which was a rich, flip-like combination of brandy, port, egg, and nutmeg meant to be consumed after dinner as an alternative or accompaniment to coffee or tea. In Mexico, coffee mixed with tequila and Licor 43 has been a bar mainstay since the 1940s. The Irish Coffee was invented at around the same time by chef Joe Sheridan at Foyne’s Flying Boat, an airport bar in Ireland. A short time later, American travel writer Stanton Delaplane introduced the Irish Coffee to the U.S. by getting it put on the menu at San Francisco’s Buena Vista Cafe. 

You’ll notice that most early coffee cocktails were quite sweet, heavy, and often hot, tending to fall into the after-dinner category. This all changed in the early 1980s when acclaimed London bartender Dick Bardsell put a drink he called the Vodka Espresso on the menu at Soho Brasserie. Over the course of the following two decades, the drink would eventually become the worldwide sensation known as the espresso martini. 

The espresso martini lost a bit of steam at the end of the 20th century as classic clear martinis came back into vogue. It’s worth noting that at this time, palates began to skew drier, brighter, and more citrus- or spirit-forward. Until recently, the bulk of coffee liqueurs that were widely available were unfashionably sugary and coffee drinks were, once again, largely confined to the dessert course.

Simultaneously, though, craft coffee was becoming a part of everyday American life. Premium chains like Pete’s and Starbucks, and later more boutique “Third Wave coffee” shops like La Colombe and Blue Bottle helped to usher great coffee into the mainstream. A variety of new, niche brewing methods—from cold brew to pour over to nitro—introduced a wider range of flavors and coffee styles to the consumer, be it at a cafe or at home.  

Do a casual poll and you may be surprised to learn that many bartenders—myself included—are former baristas. In the late aughts and early 2010s, I started noticing that many of my bartending peers were tinkering with coffee again. Some infused spirits with whole or ground beans; others swapped out the Guinness for nitro-brewed iced coffee to achieve a caffeinated and lower-ABV boilermaker. Even a few old classics started to come back: Since opening in 2016, New York City’s famed Irish cocktail bar, The Dead Rabbit, has sold hundreds of Irish Coffees each week. 

The spirits industry, too, has caught onto this reemerging trend: Brands like Mr. Black, J Rieger, and Jagermeister now offer coffee liqueurs and amaros that embrace the bitter end of the flavor spectrum, an about-face from the sugary likes of Tia Maria and Kahlua. In 2018, coffee cocktail culture went further mainstream when Starbucks began serving coffee and tea-infused cocktails at its Reserve Roastery in Milan. Starbucks’ bar concept is largely inspired by Italian cafe culture, where coffee, aperitivo, wine, beer, and spirits are all enjoyed at the same establishment. Soon after the Milan launch, the global coffee brand rolled out bar programs in its New York and Chicago flagships too. 

Then came the COVID-19 pandemic. As bars, restaurants, and mom-and-pop cafes shut down, a curious trend emerged: over-the-top coffee drink orders started going viral on Tik Tok, sparking debate amongst baristas around what was “too much.”  My theory is that patrons, unable to go to their local bar and order a cocktail, started relying on their coffee orders to scratch the itch for custom-made drinks. Lo and behold, when bars began to open up again, everyone and their mother seemed to want an espresso martini.

What initially appeared to be an anomaly eventually proved to be a bona fide example of a pop culture-driven drink trend: Seemingly out of nowhere, espresso martinis became the “It” drink, reminiscent of the cosmo in the ’90s, the martini in the ’60s, and the mint julep in the 1860s.  Bartenders are now upgrading the original, taking advantage of the new coffee spirits, and offering their own riffs on classic coffee cocktail recipes. Even the ready-to-drink contingent is getting in on the trend, as top-quality canned and bottled espresso martinis are coming to market at a rapid clip. I’m partial to the one from On The Rocks—if you don’t have an espresso maker at home, this premixed drink rivals some of the best you can get from a bar or restaurant.  

A simple coffee cocktail can deliver a familiar and comforting taste experience, while still leaving open the door for plenty of personalization. In an espresso martini (which may very well prove itself to be the cocktail of the decade) try swapping out the usual vodka with a rum or an agave spirit. Replace the Irish whiskey in your after-dinner Irish coffee with your favorite bourbon or Scotch. Use a coffee-based amaro in—or even tip a freshly brewed shot of espresso into—a Negroni riff. The possibilities are endless. 

Check out three of my favorite coffee cocktail recipes below.

Carajillo

Get the recipe >

Espresso Martini

Get the recipe >

Wise Guy Cocktail

Get the recipe >

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Over the last few years, as craft bars have increasingly sought to revive easy and approachable cocktails associated with retro trends harkening back to the Disco Era, the over-the-top 1990s, and even dive bars, many drinks that were once shunned by such “serious” establishments are now being thoughtfully reconsidered. Taking a somewhat cleaner, sleeker form, these nostalgic serves often feature premium spirits and other specialty ingredients and are assembled using more from-scratch preparation techniques. This cinnamon-scented apple martini recipe is my own reinterpretation of the candy-sweet classic appletini. Be sure to seek out an unsweetened apple brandy such as Calvados—I like Lemorton—or a premium American brand like Laird’s. (If you like a sweeter drink, add more toasted cinnamon syrup to taste.)

Stop Hating On the Appletini

Get the recipe >

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We love the brininess of olives or pickled pearl onions in our martinis and Gibsons, but pickled cranberries deliver the same salty kick plus a puckery tartness, satisfying crunch, and pretty crimson hue to holiday cocktails. Though fresh cranberries take several days to tenderize and absorb flavor, defrosted frozen ones have slightly softer skins, which speeds up the pickling process. Get a batch started at least two days before you plan to serve. Cinnamon leaves can be ordered online from Burlap & Barrel.

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Cyrus Schultz thinks Champagne is always a good idea. Born and raised in Maui, Schultz cut his teeth serving wine in celebrated fine dining establishments throughout Hawaii and California, including Roy’s in Maui, Benu in San Francisco, and the French Laundry in Napa Valley. When the now-sommelier signed on to run the wine program at Sonoma County’s Cyrus (the shared name is a coincidence), he took great care to ensure that the restaurant’s aperitif service set the tone for the whole meal. That’s why, heading into year-end festivities, I reached out to him for advice on how to serve Champagne at home like a pro—from optimal glassware to perfect food pairings.

If ever there was a time for the Cyrus team to break out the Champagne, it’s now. The Northern California wine region’s most anticipated new restaurant of the year, Cyrus is actually about to embark on a new chapter. After a lease dispute in their intimate and widely loved original location, co-owners, chef Doug Keane and mâitre’d Nick Peyton abruptly closed up shop a decade ago. This September, after years of false starts and pandemic woes, the pair finally opened the doors on this second act. Barely three months later, reservations for the 17-course tasting menu are booked solid, and the team recently took home Cyrus 2.0’s first Michelin Star.

The morning before the Michelin news came through, I happened to be on the premises, scoping out the space and sipping a graciously poured glass of bubbles before dinner service. The room was designed as a reimagining of the famed pre-dinner Champagne and caviar cart guests had come to love at the original location. Diners begin their meal with bubbly and small bites overlooking acres of surrounding vineyards and, beyond that, the rolling hills of the Alexander Valley. Even in the daytime, an understated luxe permeates the room. “It’s hard to not fall for the space,” Schultz tells me. “We offer three seatings each night, and for each of those, we’ve built in a half an hour where you can just sit, get a glass of Champagne, and watch the seasons change over the vineyards.” 

Whether you’re hosting everyone you know this season, or are looking to make the most of a special bottle with your favorite dinner companion, your evening deserves just as much. Here are Schultz’s tips for bringing a little bit of Cyrus’ Champagne chic into your own home.

The Glassware:

At Cyrus, stemware is the first thing diners bring to their lips, so Schultz was acutely aware just how important it would be to choose the proper champagne glass. In the Lounge, he uses Zalto tulips to serve all effervescent pours. “You want something that doesn’t cage all the flavors,” he explains. “A more generous glass shape allows the wine to be more expressive and speak louder” than it might in a standard, straight-sided flute.

For elevating the Champagne experience at home, glassware is the clear place to start. If your space or budget demands that you streamline your options, though, Schultz finds that sparkling wines can shine just as brightly in an elegant, all-purpose white wine glass that “lets the bubbles breathe a little.” (He uses the Sophienwald brand at home.)

Feeling festive, or setting up a Champagne fountain? “I also do love a coupe,” he admits. “For the right time and occasion, with a wine that’s fresh and vibrant and super-cold, a coupe can make you feel like you’re in that Great Gatsby era.” In other words, the glass sets the mood. “Coupes may not be the most functional, but sometimes they make you feel great, and how you feel when you’re drinking something is so important, too.” 

Keep it Cold:

When it comes to Champagne, you’re going for cold—significantly colder than other white wines, but not freezing. “You don’t want your champagne so cold that its flavors start to close down,” Schultz warns; he suggests aiming for somewhere around 46 degrees Fahrenheit (or a touch colder for non-Champagne sparklers, like cremant or Prosecco). 

The reason for this chilly temp boils down to physics. With still wines, proper temperature is all about flavor and fragrance, but with bubbles, temperature also has an impact on texture. Rising temperatures cause carbonation to expand, resulting in a more open mousse (i.e. fatter bubbles). “Effervescence is a texture rather than a flavor,” Schultz explains, “and there’s a point where the mousse behaves on the palate in a way where the wine just sings. I usually like Champagne to be very finely, tightly wound, and have that really delicate bead, but depending on the wine, sometimes it can warm up a touch, and become much more expressive.”

How can you tell when a bottle is cold enough? After years in the business, Schultz relies on instinct and physical touch, but admits that, for most, this method is not precise. For a 750-milliliter bottle, three hours in the fridge is a safe minimum starting point. An ice bucket can be faster and convenient, but Schultz reminds us that when using one, the bottle should be fully submerged in order to chill evenly. (Also remember that magnums and larger bottles take substantially longer to chill than those standard 750s.)

Food Pairings:

For nibbles to pair with their Champagne, chef Keane sends guests dainty canapés—often featuring uber-luxe ingredients like wagyu and truffles—to tease the lengthy dinner to come. They may also choose to enjoy a serving of caviar. While the ingredients are lavish, the bites are intentionally petite. 

For a more casual—yet still elevated—home experience, Schultz likes to offer more generous portions of simple, fatty foods: think fried chicken or potato chips, or the occasional silky slice of foie gras. With fuller, fruitier rosé Champagnes, though, he prefers to veer in another direction, looking to his home state for inspiration: raw tuna, seasoned with scallion, soy sauce, sesame, and inamona salt. “Rosé has enough power to stand up to the rich, oily nature of ahi,” he tells me.  “Don’t sleep on rosé Champagne and ahi poke!”

The Main Event:

Schultz built Cyrus’s 800+ bottle wine menu from scratch; today, the restaurant’s cellar boasts just over a hundred Champagnes (and a handful of stand-out Sonoma sparklers). Rare vintages from well-known marquee houses are listed alongside niche grower-producers, and while many of the selects are near impossible to find outside of private collections and wine-focused restaurants, some of the somm’s favorites are available in stores. In the $40 to $60 price range, he suggests seeking out Chartogne-Taillet, Pierre Peters, or the consistently delicious Pol Roger. 

For folks looking to splurge, Schultz points to Krug or cult favorite Salon—an early pioneer of the Blanc de Blancs style which only produces wines in the most exceptional of vintages. “[Salon] only makes one wine, so you know it’s going to be delicious. You don’t have to do all this homework about, ‘was that a good vintage or a bad one?’ They’ve done it all for you—but it is a splurge!”

A Note on Gifting Champagne Like a Pro:

Schultz has thoughts on gifting Champagne, too. “The biggest thing I try to let people know is that if I’m giving them a bottle of Champagne, I’m saying, ‘Hey, this is something for you to drink and enjoy now.’” Recipients of wine gifts may instinctively save the bottle for another special occasion, but Schultz reminds us that the holidays are about enjoyment and fun. “Nothing does that like opening a bottle of Champagne.”

How To Open Champagne Like A Swashbuckling Sommelier

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Chef Mary Sue Milliken showed us how to craft her decadent eggnog recipe, which incorporates whipped cream, egg whites, and freshly ground spices into a custardy zabaglione-like base. 

Featured in “A Nog Like No Other” by Karen Shimizu in the December 2013 issue.

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Magbunga is Tagalog for “fruit” or “blossom” and indicates the culmination of a harvest or yield.  In the case of this drink, the name is a nod to classic Tiki cocktail culture. Filipino ingredients and recipes inspired the recipe, which is an homage to the midcentury Filipino bartenders who contributed their know-how and creativity to the genre—notably Mariano Licudine, Bob Esmino, and Ray Barrientos.

I’ve used a number of ingredients that are common in tropical cocktails and also in Filipino cuisine: rum, pineapple, coconut, banana, and calamansi. The formula is also partly inspired by the piña colada, but I’ve swapped in nondairy banana milk for the coconut cream to render a slightly drier, more aromatic drink. The coconut flavor is deployed as an infusion to bring in those creamy, floral notes, without the added sweetness. As the name implies, flavors unfold and blossom as you move from noticing the nut and flora notes on the nose, take in the drinks dry, slightly creamy palate, and experience a dry, slightly spicy finish courtesy the rum and banana.

This recipe also lends itself well to batching up for a crowd: simply combine all the ingredients in a nonreactive container and chill for three to four hours before serving over ice. Oleo saccharum can be ordered online, but it’s also easy to make your own. For the infused rum, I suggest seeking out the Filipino brand Kasama.

Featured in: “Shake Off the Winter Blues with Leah Cohen’s Tropical Seafood Feast.”

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Mixologist David Welch pours this “broken Negroni,” a bubbly riff on the beloved Italian cocktail at Sunshine Tavern in Portland, Oregon. This recipe first appeared in the iPad edition of our December 2013 issue with the article “Bubblicious.”

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The Chandelier Bar at Las Vegas’s Cosmopolitan Hotel (winner for Best Hotel Bar in the 2014 Saveur Culinary Travel Awards) serves this alluring concoction, the “Planet of the Grapes,” which blends Pavan, an orange blossom–infused liqueur, with vodka, chamomile syrup, and sparkling wine.

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