Down six winding flights of stairs, across the street, and onto rue Faidherbe, the quartier’s main thoroughfare—with its poppy-themed florist, organic and biodynamic market, local post office, and neighborhood record shop—I take a quick left on the narrow, cobblestoned rue du Dahomey and another onto rue Saint-Bernard. I could do the four-minute walk in this far east section of the 11th arrondissement—my home for the past two years—with my eyes closed and still land precisely on the chocolate-meets-caramelizing-onions-scented doorstop of 5 rue Saint-Bernard. It’s 8:30 a.m., and the gate in front of the seafoam green facade of Mokonuts is only halfway lifted, but that doesn’t stop passersby from ducking under it to see about some coffee or a cookie. This 24-seat local favorite calls itself a “café and bakery” on its sign, but it is so much more than that. Almost immediately, I’m welcomed by a familiar call: “Hiieeeee, Sara.”

Run by husband-and-wife team Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem, Mokonuts is the quirkily named, out-of-the-way spot in Paris—ahead of even the established French bread bakeries like Du Pain et Des Idées or praised macaron meccas like Pierre Hermé— where I tell everyone who visits the city to go. “But don’t be picky,” I encourage them. The menu, influenced by Middle Eastern, French, and American cooking, is delicious, but it’s no steak frites joint, and the options are limited. “Oh, and make reservations for lunch.” The tiny, sunlit dining room does only one formal seating, from noon to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday. (Though rumor has it they might be opening for dinner soon.)

Moko and Omar are among Paris’ growing community of international chefs laying claim to the City of Light. Moko, 46, who was born in Japan and raised in the United States, was a labor negotiator before getting into the restaurant business 10 years ago. And Lebanon-born, France-raised Omar, 44, was a liaison for the Yankees who claims that, up until the year 2000, he “couldn’t even cook an egg.”

“It’s just because I had exposure,” says Moko, quick to come to Omar’s defense about his late-blooming kitchen skills. She grew up in San Francisco with a mother whose passion was French pastry, and Moko was, therefore, “making cream puffs at, like, 10.” Today, her crispy-on-the-outside, doughy-on-the-inside cookies, hand-rolled with deeply flavorful ingredients such as Italian hazelnuts or 70 percent German dark chocolate, are gaining a reputation for being the best in town, while Omar’s savory dishes—like creamy labneh whipped with minerally, fruity olive oil from Puglia and sprinkled with za’atar—cause even the French to put down their utensils and clean the bowl with their fingers.

“Filter?” Moko asks, motioning to the drip-coffee machine—a rarity in the city’s classic sidewalk cafés. Typically, she will have the coffee brewed before I get there, but because it’s still early, she flips the switch as soon as I give her the go-ahead. My stomach is growling, too, but a lack of urgency is perhaps the place’s only typically Parisian element—one I remember every time I come in under-caffeinated or very hungry. While it’s usually quiet this early on a weekday—there are generally a few people parked behind a laptop, a business meeting or two taking place, and, increasingly, a table of tourists photographing their egg on a sourdough waffle—today, Moko is furiously frothing noisettes and mixing batter, while Omar is preparing his mise en place. I feel bad about interrupting them, but I eye someone eating what looks like a bowl of granola with yogurt and point it out to Moko across the room.

“What’s that?” I ask in English. While they both speak fluent French, my native tongue is spoken widely at Mokonuts.

“Oooh. You’ve never had it? Hold on,” she says, pulling down plastic containers from shelves and mason jars from cabinets.

And so I hold on, for a while, and when it comes, it’s heaven in a raw, misshapen ceramic bowl (by local potter Judith Lasry, who is known for that deliberately unfinished style). The homemade yogurt is not too sour and not too sweet, and it’s topped with handfuls of Moko’s so-called freestyle granola that “changes based on ingredient availability and mood,” she says. The crunch I get today comes from toasted oats, glossy hazelnuts, and sunflower seeds, held together by rice syrup and melted brown sugar. She has topped it with chopped segments of tart, refreshing grapefruit, and torn pieces of fresh mint.

“The idea was that there was no idea,” says Omar of opening their first collaboration as a couple, in 2015. “That’s the thing. We had no concept in mind. We knew Moko made good cookies, and we thought we’d do some sandwiches and serve good coffee.” Fifteen years prior, Moko still had her nose in law books when Omar began spending hours at bookshops drooling over classic cooking tomes. “I’ve always loved to eat,” Omar says. “I grew up in a Lebanese family where food was always very important. But it was really books, especially Thomas Keller’s French Laundry Cookbook, that gave me the desire to just drop everything and learn to cook.”

After a traditional culinary-school experience back in New York, where the couple met, Omar landed at the canapé station at Daniel. Moko’s company transferred her to London, and Omar followed shortly after, eventually finding himself on the line at the Gordon Ramsay Group’s Savoy Grill.

It was not long before Moko wanted in on the pots-and-pans action. Ladurée had just opened inside Harrods, so she called them up and asked if she could come in as an unpaid apprentice on weekends. The couple soon found themselves wearing aprons until the wee hours, but Moko was reluctantly still in a suit while the sun shone. Convinced the only place to legitimately bake was Paris, in 2008, Moko quit law and the pair moved back to Omar’s hometown. (“Moko, you’re nuts!” her colleagues told her, and thus, the name of their future café was born.)

After weeks of trying to talk pastry chefs into taking her on without any formal training, Blé Sucré’s Fabrice Le Bourdat (formerly of the luxurious restaurant at the Hôtel Le Bristol, now baker of the city’s fluffiest, sugar-glazed madeleines) gave her a shot as an unpaid intern. “He said, ‘If you want to come in and work at four in the morning for free, sure!’” says Moko, laughing. Folding temperature-­controlled dough over and over again to make croissants wasn’t for her, though, so she decided to try restaurant pastry instead, and went to apprentice at Alain Senderens’ two-Michelin-starred Lucas Carton.

“You still had to follow traditional protocol,” she says. “We were allowed to propose things, but my ideas were always too weird. Out of the norm. ‘Nobody is going to eat that,’ they’d say. Then I went to Yam’Tcha, and that was like, ‘Wow.’”

She’s speaking of Chef’s Table France personality Adeline Grattard’s Michelin-​starred restaurant in the 1st arrondissement, which she walked into with the intention of asking for a job. Grattard’s concoctions often mingle contradictory flavors, like an airy Chinese bun filled with Stilton and Amarena cherry, and Moko felt that the two of them spoke the same language. “She plays around with herbs and spices in her desserts, and our sweet levels were in sync,” Moko says. Grattard created a position for her, and while it didn’t last long (Moko became pregnant), much of Moko’s baking philosophy stems from her time there. “I do not like sweet pastry crust, or pâte sucrée,” which is almost always present in Parisian pastry-shop tarts,” says Moko. “I like desserts to accentuate the sweetness of natural fruits, so I try to accomplish that by using honey or light fruit jam.” While the rotating confections on display at Mokonuts can’t rival traditional patisseries when it comes to quantity—this is not where you come to grab a dozen cookies for a picnic at Place des Vosges or a whole tarte to take to a soirée at a friend’s apartment—the individual slices of moist halvah cake with bits of cinnamon-coated pecans, or a fresh fig tarte oozing with sugary juices and topped with light-as-air mascarpone cream might make you think twice about popping yet another macaron. Wooden crates filled with just-received fresh produce—yellow heirloom tomatoes, shiny violet eggplants, leafy “chou” kale—are stacked on top of each other like Jenga pieces, making the passageway between the dining room and kitchen (not to mention the closet-size bathroom) a tad tight. What Omar isn’t using generally remains there in boxes, acting as decor. Bottles of natural wine are lined up along a plant-scattered shelf against the white, exposed brick wall. Edison bulbs hang over the wooden tables for two. By the time Omar gets in, Guillaume the fish guy—a built, black-bearded man who looks more like he belongs on the cover of GQ than in gaiters—has already let himself in to drop off today’s supply.

“You don’t know what you’re going to get until the day before, because whatever he catches, he catches,” Omar tells me, as he carefully cleans live scallops. These were sourced from another purveyor, a fisherman named Laurent, from Northern Brittany, “who scuba-dives to pick them by hand.”

“When we get them, they are barely out of the water 24 hours,” says Omar, placing the shells aside to reuse for plating. He’ll do little else to the round, fleshy pearls but cut them into chunks, toss them with olive oil and flaky salt, and gently splash them with water. Then he’ll top them with clarified butter and a bergamot-scented sabayon that he vigorously whisks by hand for 20 to 25 minutes. “You have to stop it at the right point,” he says while spooning the bubbly sauce onto the glossy shellfish. “Not cooked enough, and it will fall and separate; too cooked, and you get scrambled eggs.”

This near-perfect execution of a creative scallop tartare is a far cry from classic café fare. At barely two weeks old, Mokonuts evolved into a full-fledged, reservations-required restaurant where, contrary to the formulaic Michelin-starred spots he worked at prior, Omar now prefers to make things up as he goes. And since he prioritizes sourcing his ingredients straight from local French farmers, he has little choice. Aside from the seasonality aspect—cepes in September, asparagus in April—he must contend with his neighbors’ selections, too.

“This guy Vincent from Chablis in Burgundy, who supplies some of our vegetables, comes to Paris only on Wednesdays,” explains Omar. “I do my shopping from his truck outside the restaurant and then he moves on. Sometimes I’ll ask, ‘Do you have the same turnips you had last week? Because they were beautiful.’ And he’ll be like, ‘Sorry, Giovanni [Passerini, chef at the eponymous Italian restaurant on nearby rue Traversiere] took everything.’ It happens a lot.”

There are only a handful of chefs and restaurants in Paris that function this way, according to Omar. “Bertrand [Grébaut of nearby restaurant Septime] and Taku [Dersou of Dersou] are two more,” he says, “and coincidentally most of these are located in the onzième [11th arrondissement].” It’s a friendly, close-knit chef crew who are all a part of a community WhatsApp group. “We work with the same produce because we demand high quality and high standards, but at the end, what shows up on the plate is completely different.”

During the lunch rush, when Moko acts as server, sommelier, and hostess—complete with her own hand-drawn seating chart—the menu generally features a choice of three appetizers (and always the za’atar-sprinkled labneh), two mains (maybe a pan-cooked Guinea fowl with crispy skin served with apples and cabbage, or flaky but moist line-caught hake topped with anchovy-based salsa verde). And, of course, there’s a choice of sweet seasonal treats, which might include anything from a rhubarb galette with buckwheat crust to a strawberry tarte with mascarpone and black pepper cream. I often recommend at least one cookie—if not to have with a cup of Moko’s weekly-steeped hibiscus tea, made from dehydrated flowers that she picked up in Puebla Mexico, then to indulge in later after, say, arriving back up those six flights of stairs.

Following goûter—French for afternoon snack time, when much of the country stops for a sweet—the 80 or 90 cookies Moko bakes twice daily, in varying types from miso and sesame to black olive and white chocolate, are usually all gone. But just before she rolls up her sleeves and starts shaping tomorrow’s batch, she realizes the time: Their daughters, Aly, 4, and Mia, 7, need to be picked up from school around the block, which Moko zips out the door to do with flour-coated hands and her apron still on. Once back at the café, they settle in to color and watch videos while Mom and Dad prep for the next day—or, in some cases, that night, when Omar stays alone to cook for a private dinner party.

Moko is resolute about not having a nanny—“Why do I have to pay someone to raise our kids?” she asks—so the two keep the café closed on weekends and late nights. The girls have become a fixture for regulars, who they’ll often engage. Today, Mia is pointing out her sparkly new shoes.

“See you tomorrow?” Moko asks me, as Aly clings to her hip.

“Exactement,” I say. Because, really, they will.

Get The Recipes From Mokonuts

Labneh with Swiss Chard, Black Olives, and Za’atar

Pommes Tapées with Jalapeño Vinaigrette

Lamb-Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with Green Tahini

Waffle Sandwiches with Cecina, Avocado, and Arugula

Veal Tartare with Trout Roe, Capers, and Fiore Sardo Dressing

Double Chocolate and Candied-Ginger Cookies

The post Here’s Where to Eat Paris’ Best Cookies appeared first on Saveur.

Morocco is the land of spices, herbs, and scents; of seven-vegetable couscous and clay tagines that stew up anything from chicken to beef to fish with little more than an occasional stir. While classic kebabs and slurpy snail soup can be found in the nightly stalls of Marrakech’s bustling Jemaa el-Fna Square, where snakes are charmed and bright round oranges are pressed into pulpy juice, there’s no shortage of more traditional restaurants either. But traditional doesn’t mean predictable. Each of these five spots offer a little something extra with mealtime: From Parisian chefs whipping their Michelin stars into north African delicacies while live music plays in the courtyard to local dadas (traditional female cooks) who eschew blenders for their hands and will teach you to do the same.

To Escape the Medina, with Lunch and Juice: Le Jardin
After you’ve haggled the price of your Berber carpet and picked out all your copper lanterns from the souks of Marrakech’s maze-like medina, or old city, weave your way to this lovely respite in the center of souk El jeld. Surrounded by lush greenery where turtles roam the garden eating lettuce at your feet, it’s a great spot for a fresh juice (try the orange and beet), a milky date shake, or something simple, like a club sandwich and a side of fries. There are Moroccan dishes, too, but the space, with its upstairs pop-up shop full of high-priced kaftans from Algerian-born designer Norya Ayron, caters especially to visitors and expats—but won’t make you feel like you’ve just gotten off the tour bus.

Le Jardin
32, Souk Sidi Abdelaziz
+212 5 24 37 82 95
Monday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-12 a.m.

For a Traditional Tagine that Comes with a Lesson: La Maison Arabe
What started out as a restaurant back in 1946 is now a full-fledged hotel with 26 rooms and a first-rate cooking school where students can spend four hours with a dada, learning how to preserve lemons and then mixing them up with chicken and olives in a tagine. Two classes are held daily: One at the hotel and one on their off-site property 15 minutes away, where eclectic herbs like lemon verbena and chocolate mint grow wild in the garden. During the class, participants get their own cooking station, complete with a video screen to mimic the dada, and ingredients to chop and measure. Once all’s been stirred and stewed, you’ll feast outdoors before receiving a completion “diploma”—and your own mini tagine to take home. It’s an absolute must in the medina.

La Maison Arabe
Derb Assehbii
+212 5 24 38 70 10
Half-day cooking courses at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.; 600 dirham pp not including alcohol (or $62 at 9.67 dirham to the $1)

For Late Afternoon Story Telling with a Snack: Cafe Clock
“Morocco is not only about monkeys with diapers in the square,” said an apprentice storyteller before introducing his mentor Hajj Ahmed Ezzaraghani, 75, who shares tales that date back thousands of years—known as hikayat—at Cafe Clock every Thursday night. The cool hangout, opened in 2014 by British expat Mike Richardson, is not only a self-proclaimed “cross-cultural” destination for fables or morning yoga classes—it serves starters and snacks like creamy artichoke soup and a vegetable bastilla, or savory pie, and it’s home to the famed Clock Camel Burger with homemade “Tza” Ketchup (loaded with cinnamon), which is out of this world.

Cafe Clock
224 Derb Chtouka
+212 5 24 37 83 67
Monday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.

For a Michelin-Starred Dinner with Music: Le Grande Table Marocaine
From the pouf (a pillow-top stool) provided for your handbag to the orange blossom water brought over to your table for hand washing, this is decadent dining in all its glory. If you can’t afford to stay in one of the Royal Mansour’s private riads—a traditional, open-roofed house—for upwards of €1,000 a night, settling for Parisian chef Yannick Alleno’s Moroccan Table (his Table Francais is just across the courtyard) is an excellent alternative. Here, snails are grilled and stuffed into ravioli, clams from the country’s Dukkaha Abda region are cooked in a tagine, and beef is served with gnocchi spiced with saffron from Ourika in the Atlas Mountains. Start with a glass of Laurent Perrier Rosé Champagne before the meal where a man plays an Arabic string instrument called an oud in the blue-tiled, open-air courtyard. There’s not a worry in the world—except maybe the bill.

Le Grande Table Marocaine
Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti
Dinner only, Monday-Sunday from 7:30 p.m.

For a Modern Moroccan Dinner, with Cocktails: Nomad
This rooftop spot, which opened in November, is just steps from the historical Jemaa el-Fna Square—but it couldn’t be more contemporary and cool. Co-owned by Brit Sebastian de Gzell, who collaborated with Serge Becker on Miss Lilly’s in New York City’s SoHo, it’s a multi-level restaurant dressed up in designs from local artisans but maintains a more minimalist look with tan cushions and black and white patterned placemats. The modern Moroccan cuisine features eclectic twists on classics such as a bastilla filled with vegetables and goat’s cheese (instead of pigeon) and calamari from Agadir in a cumin and anchovy-infused sauce with harissa. Alcohol can be hard to find in this city, but here, cocktails like cucumber martinis or mojitos are on tap for international clientele.

Nomad
1, Derb Aarjan
+212 5 24 38 16 09
Monday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Sara Lieberman is a freelance lifestyle and travel journalist whose work appears in the New York Times, Hemispheres, The Daily Beast and more. She enjoys practicing yoga in unusual places, all things New York and Paris (her two “homes”), and considers one piece of pizza the perfect snack. Her personal musings on self-discovery while discovering the world can be found on her blog News Girl About Towns.

The post In Marrakech, Mealtimes Come With Extras on the Side appeared first on Saveur.

A few constants remain when it comes to eating in Paris: Service is slow by American standards, and you’ll always have to ask for la carte (the menu, not to be confused with le menu—the prix-fixe option). It’s also worth noting that an _entrée is an appetizer, a plat is an entrée, and the dessert, well, you can handle that one. Also, water isn’t so important, so if you want une carafe d’eau (water for the table), prepare to ask for it, s’il vous plaît.

Opening and closing times vary drastically from place to place, too, with many spots being closed on Sunday and Monday, and several not even answering the phone for reservations on off-days or between lunch and dinner. (Sadly, online reservation systems aren’t quite status quo just yet, though La Fourchette is trying.)

And just as not every bagel or pizza slice is created equal in New York City, the same goes for macarons, croissants, and baguettes in Paris.

All that being said, there is innovation shining brightly in the City of Light, with pop-up pairings featuring chef collaborations; food trucks dishing out artisanal burgers; really good coffee that doesn’t taste like sludge; and even breakfast for those of us who like a few eggs with our baguette and butter. Whatever you fancy, be it snails or beef cheek, natural wine or un cocktail, mangez bien!

Where to Eat

Heimat
This minimalist, trés chic spot from Pierre Jancou, who became known for being a pioneer in the natural wine movement at his other dining destinations La Cremerie and Vivant, opened in January on a quiet street just around the corner from the Palais Royal. Exposed stone walls and wooden bar stools that’d look at home in a contemporary art gallery adorn the spacious, multi-room restaurant, which serves a mix between Italian and French dishes like rigatoni with rabbit and wild marjoram. There’s a set-price menu at lunch, or the option to go a la carte for dinner.

Heimat
37 Rue de Montpensier, Paris, 75001
+33 1 40 26 78 25

Hero
In the last four years alone, the expat food group Quixotic Projects has opened the trendy taqueria Candelaria, the Peruvian tapas joint Le Mary Celeste, and Pigalle’s rock ‘n’ roll dive bar Glass. Now, come mid-March, Paris will see the opening of their fourth spot in the up-and-coming, second-meets-tenth area by République. With the exception of a private, six-person, pre-bookable chef’s table dubbed “Super Hero,” this restaurant will maintain its open-til-late, small-plate, hip multi-lingual formula that’s succeeded thus far. Instead of bringing Paris hot dogs, tacos, or ceviche, this time around, chef Haan Palcu-Chang of Le Mary Celeste is frying up Korean chicken.

Hero
289 Rue Saint Denis, Paris, 75002
+33 1 23 45 67 89

Le Servan
Run by Filipino-French sisters Tatiana and Katia Levha, the small, brightly lit space with a hand-painted ceiling in the hip 11th arrondissement opened in October and has been packed ever since. While the service is traditionally French (read: slow), the dishes on the ever-changing menu itself pack a punch once they arrive, from the bulot (cold, snail-like shellfish) served with mayonnaise to a lemon tart with candied hazelnuts for dessert.

Le Servan
32 Rue Saint-Maur, Paris, 75011
+33 1 55 28 51 82

Frenchie Bar à Vins
Forget “Jenny from the Block.” In Paris’ 2nd arrondissement, it’s all about Gregory from the Block. Mr. Marchand is the Frenchie Man About Town who dominates this petite rue with not one, but three restaurants. Of the pack, his not-quite-casual but not-quite-posh Bar à Vins seems to be most adored by all, if only because it’s easiest to get in. (That is, if you arrive when it opens at 7 p.m.) Dishes like burrata with peach and purple basil, and tortellini with ricotta, peas, and brown butter, have diners eating while standing up if a seat isn’t available, proving that any which way one gets to taste Marchand’s food is the right way.

Frenchie Bar à Vins
5-6 Rue du Nil, Paris, 75002
+33 1 40 39 96 19

Holybelly
The French don’t typically eat large, American-style breakfasts, but for the rest of us that do, this is the morning must-eat in town. Anglos line up outside before Holybelly’s 10 a.m. opening on the weekends for a taste of the stellar brunch, which features the likes of pancakes with noisettes (hazelnuts) and seasonal fruits, or fried eggs and hash browns, paired perfectly with coffee from Belleville Brûlerie. English is the language of choice at this friendly, communal meeting place run by a French pair who spent time in Melbourne and Vancouver. The décor is bright and modern with vintage touches throughout like a pinball machine, which is great for those getting restless from the wait.

Holybelly
19 Rue Lucien Sampaix, Paris, 75010
+33 9 73 60 13 64

Au Passage
You’ll wonder if you made a wrong turn when heading towards this no-frills restaurant located on a passage in the 11th arrondissement, but once you’ve found it, you’ll realize that it was worth the extra effort. While the chef has changed since Au Passage opened in 2011, the small, sharable dishes like Brussels sprouts with burnt hazelnuts and a hefty helping of crème fraîche are still inspired. The atmosphere itself may be oddly drab, and the daily menu is written on one large blackboard in the back (which you’ll have to squint or get up to see), but you’re there for the food and it’s fantastic.

Au Passage
1bis Passage Saint-Sébastien, Paris, 75011
+33 1 43 55 07 52

Clown Bar
You’ll be hard pressed to keep from smiling when dining at this always-busy bistrot a stone’s throw from the haute Marais. The red-nosed, made-up faces on the ancient wall tiles, along with the mirrored bar and painted ceiling, remain in tact from its early-20th century days, but what’s served on the tables is all fresh, unique, and ahead of its time. Take, for example, the raw and cold coquille Saint-Jacques served with warm burrata and basil purée, or the buttery foie gras and vegetable tartin, or the pamplemousse (grapefruit) creme brulée that’s been bruléed to perfection. Whether you dine outside, at the bar, or at one of the wooden tables with hidden drawers for cutlery, this restaurant from Saturne alumni Sven Chartier and Ewen Lemoigne is no joke.

Clown Bar
114 Rue Amelot, Paris, 75011
+33 1 43 55 87 35

Le Bistrot Paul Bert
If you’re looking for a traditional côte de boeuf or Julia Child’s favorite poisson meunière (fish with lemon and brown butter), this affordable, 15-year-old mainstay will not disappoint. The worn décor looks more ancient than its decade-plus age, but it’s all charm, complete with crooked artwork, scratched mirrors, and a blackboard menu of “plats du jour” that makes its way around the room whenever your server feels like it. The price is right, too, and if your French is comme çi comme ça, don’t worry. Just come with patience and a willingness to succumb to whatever French flavors they’ve got cooking that evening.

Le Bistrot Paul Bert
18 Rue Paul Bert, Paris, 75011
+33 1 43 72 24 01

Le Grand 8
After climbing all those steps and hills near Sacré Coeur in Montmartre, it’d be easy to settle for something as simple as a seat and a carafe d’eau at one of the many tourist-trodden spots on the butte. But you shouldn’t, because you’d be missing out on one of Paris’ more quaint and homey restaurants, which also happens to have one of the best views in town. Hearty proteins like duck and cod come with potatoes and seasonal vegetables, and the menu option is a steal at 28 Euros for a plat, entrée, and dessert. The wine list is impressive, too, and service comes with an honest smile. Book ahead to request a table in the back, by the window overlooking the city below.

Le Grand 8
8 Rue Lamarck, Paris, 75018
+33 1 42 55 04 55

Breizh Café
Crêpes are not a Parisian specialty, but the Brittany-born pancake has become a national dish, so there are obviously a lot of places to go buckwheat or go home in the capital. That said, few are as traditional, flavorful, and varied as those from this popular café in the Marais, where a reservation is absolutely necessary. Whether you go savory with eggs, herbs, and salty sliced jambon, or sweet with nutella and strawberry, you won’t be disappointed.

Breizh Café
111 Rue Vieille du Temple, Paris, 75003
+33 1 42 72 13 77

Where to Drink

Lockwood
By day, this multi-level space is a café with great coffee where Parisians and expats alike come for the free WiFi and fluffy pancakes with apples, or onion soup and le sandwich. But by night, in its cavernous, low-ceilinged rooms downstairs, good-looking people who are eager to pay a high price for speciality cocktails and loud 80s music come to mingle. From 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. everyday except Sunday, it’s a veritable one-stop-shop for good food, good vibes, and bonheur, as the French say.

Lockwood
73 Rue d’Aboukir, Paris, 75002
+33 1 77 32 97 21

La Fine Mousse
While Paris isn’t necessarily known for its beer, there’s been an increase in demand for options beyond Kronenbourg—or “Kro,” as it’s called—which is essentially France’s Budweiser. Thankfully, La Fine Mousse is happy to quench your thirst with its huge selection of beers (150 to be exact) from all over the world, like Old Crustacean Barleywine from Rogue Ales in Oregon, which packs a punch at 11.5% alcohol. Whether you want domestic or international, blonde, stout, or IPA, you’ll find it in this happening hot spot near Oberkampf, where across the street they’ve opened a restaurant to help sop up all that hop.

La Fine Mousse
6 Avenue Jean Aicard, Paris, 75011
+33 1 48 06 40 94

L’Avant Comptoir
If you don’t mind a bit of elbow or backside with your creamy ham croquettes, this standing-room-only spot, which opened on the Left Bank in 2009, is the place to go for stellar wine and small plates. But don’t call them tapas if you want to get on owner Yves Camdeborde’s good side—he classifies the place as an “hors d’oeuvres bar.” This is France, after all. Whatever you call it, even six years after its debut, it remains packed like a tin of sardines, which may appear on the menu that changes daily. Stop in for one or two bites before a bigger meal (perhaps at Le Comptoir du Relais, Camdeborde’s popular formal restaurant next door) or after a movie at the Odéon down the block.

L’Avant Comptoir
3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, Paris, 75006
+33 1 44 27 07 97

Lulu White
From the folks who brought thirsty bobos (French hipsters) the Little Red Door in the Marais comes this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it cocktail den hidden on a small street in trendy South Pigalle (aka SoPi). Inside, a handful of crescent-shaped velvet banquettes provide an intimate atmosphere that’s perfectly suited for the neighborhood’s own haughty history and that of the New Orleans mistress the bar is named after. Whether served straight-up, shaken, or stirred, seven of the cocktails come with absinthe, and many get a slushy treatment, giving a nod to the Big Easy’s most famous fête, Mardi Gras.

Lulu White
12 Rue Frochot, Paris, 75009
+33 9 83 58 93 32

Aux Deux Amis
You know those places in Paris where Parisians are laughing out loud and spilling onto the street with a drink and cigarette in hand? Where all seems right with the world and everyone’s having a raucous good time? This is one of those places. With a huge selection of natural wine leaving stains on the wooden tables, and a small-dish menu that’s scribbled on a tiny piece of paper that the server will pass around, this is a real local’s gem. The atmosphere may not be glamorous, and the tables are super tight, but double kisses are given out quicker than you can say bonjour, so just take one (or two) and pass ’em on.

Aux Deux Amis
45 Rue Oberkampf, Paris, 75011
+33 1 58 30 38 13

Where to Stay

Jules & Jim
If hip and understated—in the coolest way possible—is your M.O., check into this four-year-old hotel in between the Centre Pompidou and Marché des Enfants Rouge, the city’s oldest covered food market. Many of the 23 minimalist rooms may be small at only 14 square meters, but they’re all uniquely shaped, and some (like No. 81 and No. 71) provide clear views of the Sacré Coeur way up in the 18th arrondissement. Mirror-like flatscreen TVs are hidden in plain sight, while fresh ranunculuses adorn wooden desktops, and sexy black-and-white images of men posing in the hotel’s pre-renovated construction zone are hung on the walls. Molton Brown toiletries can be found in the bathrooms and rotating photo exhibits pop up in the lobby every two months. Rooms start at 190 Euros a night.

Hôtel Jules & Jim
1 Rue des Gravilliers, Paris, 75003
+33 1 44 54 13 13

The Grand Pigalle
Forget the bed and breakfast. The trio behind the internationally popular mixology haven Experimental Cocktail Club has dubbed this 37-room hotel in South Pigalle a “bed and beverage.” When it opens this month, there’s no doubt that visiting fashionistas and food lovers alike will be spilling from its super-chic rooms. Clever touches such as brass pineapples on every forest green door, martini glass-patterned carpets, and pre-made cocktails in the mini bar will help differentiate it from other boutique hotels in the area (namely Hotel Amour and the forthcoming, ever-opulent Maison Souquet). The “Under the Roof” rooms 601 and 602 on the top floor provide stellar views of Sacré Coeur just up the hill in Montmartre—either from the bed, or the fully open shower, while the smaller chambers on the 5th floor have terraces that overlook well-known Rue Frochot below. Rooms start at 200 Euros a night.

The Grand Pigalle
29 Rue Victor Massé, Paris, 75009

Park Hyatt Place Vendome
A mainstay for the last 13 years, this 153-room chain hotel, which is a stone’s throw from the Jardin des Tuileries and trendy Rue Saint-Honoré, prides itself on being both “confidential and residential.” Whatever that means, the warm and welcoming communal lounge areas on the first floor feature beige columns and a breakfast bar blooming with dozens of fresh white orchids. Just outside in the inner courtyard, heated lamps provide warmth if you haven’t booked a table inside the seasonal chalet, where up to 8 people can dine on a special raclette menu for 175 Euros per person.The hotel exudes elegant artistic touches, with over 5,000 bronze sculptures by artist Roselyne Granet hung throughout—on the walls, the door handles, the lamps, and the windows. Those looking for a more contemporary escape can now book a manicure or pedicure in the newly-designated nail suite from Kure Bazaar on the sixth floor. Rooms start at 810 Euros a night.

Place Vendome
5 Rue de la Paix, Paris, 75002
+33 1 5871 1234

What to Do

Paris Picnic
Is there any other pastime that screams Paris more than a picnic? Weather permitting, Paris Picnic, which debuted last spring, will deliver a basket full of delicacies—wine, baguette, an assortment of cheeses, charcuterie, etc.—anywhere you’d like to take a seat. Just head to their website to choose from one of the four options including “Le Classique,” which comes with all of the above, along with a blanket and cutlery for 55 Euro, and “Le Chic,” which swaps wine for Champagne and adds in macarons and foie gras for 85 Euro. Whether you want something public and glitzy on the Champs de Mars just before the Eiffel Tower lights up, or private and quiet in the hilly Buttes-Chaumont, all you have to do is place an order and show up.

The Chamber
The Chamber is a cocktail club hosted in a different Parisian home each month. Founded by American Forest Collins of the popular blog 52 Martinis, it is meant to evoke the social salons of yesteryear by bringing together various food and drink lovers for an evening (or afternoon) of inventive cocktails and small bites catered by a local tastemakers. A yearly membership is 250 Euros and guarantees first access to all events for half price; without a membership, events are around 45 Euros.

Aligre Marché
So you want to food shop like a Parisian, do you? Head to this 6-day-a-week market in the 12th arrondissement—and don’t forget your tote and cash. You’ll want to load up on the wide variety of fresh produce, from candy-pink grapefruit to every fresh herb you can think of. Inside the covered area, there’s a handful of vendors selling cheese, charcuterie, and flowers, but the outside bits are the most fun, with each stand proclaiming its unique personality via shouts for your attention. Tasting is encouraged. On your way out, stop for an oyster (or five) and a glass of vin blanc at nearby Le Baron Rouge.

Place d’Aligre
Paris, France, 75012

“Paris by Mouth” Food Tour
From the popular English food blog of the same name, these 3-hour tours in the Marais, Latin Quarter, or Saint-Germain will smarten you up and fill your belly. Launched by Kansas-born Meg Zimbeck in 2012, Zimbeck’s guides—a mix of journalists and industry vets—are knowledgable and eager to share their food IQ with the group. Whether it’s a baguette’s shelf-life (5 to 6 hours) to what MOF stands for and why it’s important (Meilleurs Ouvriers de France—it designates the best of the best among trade professionals), this is learning at its most fun and most delicious. There are only 7 spots on each tour, so book way ahead if you’ve got a tight schedule. And while it probably goes without saying, go hungry.

The Paris Pop Up
What began as a love affair at the ever-popular Frenchie restaurant has now blossomed into a booming business for Brit Harry Cummins and Canadian Laura Vidal, two 30-somethings who now travel around the world, knives and creativity in tow, hoping to feed hungry diners wherever they land. Of course, it all started here in Paris. After a few months spent in Morocco, they’re back this spring hosting a series of wine-themed dinners called “Spin the Bottle” at the popular Table Ronde, a space that showcases the chef’s every move in front of 16 guests. Dinner tickets aren’t cheap (they cost 115 Euros), but considering you get six dishes paired with six different wines—all while watching Harry cook—it’s a bargain. Be sure to follow the pair’s whereabouts online, because you never know where they’ll pop up next.

Sunday Bingo at Freddies
While Californian Kristin Frederick is best known around town for being the first person to bring a food truck to Paris (her Camion Qui Fume attracts people in droves for its gourmet burgers with artisanal toppings), she’s also brought American deli meat to the masses with Freddies, a casual diner-like spot that opened in 2013. While you can get your pastrami or cheesesteak fix Tuesday through Saturday from noon until 4 p.m., Sunday evening (long known for being the night when most restaurants are closed) is the best time to go, as they stay open late and hand out bingo boards upon arrival. It’s a real jovial, local, non-traditionally French vibe that’ll provide a sense of home for those staying awhile (or those just ready to eat something other than fruit de mare or croissants).

Freddies
22 Rue Crespin du Gast, Paris, 75011
+33 1 84 16 33 75

Les en Dimanches #AtYourSundayBest
Launched in late 2014 by Michael Cohen, “The Wine Guy” at Le Perchoir (Paris’ hippest, if not only, rooftop bar), these infrequent Sunday dinners attract both visitors and locals looking for a taste of something unique and totally hip. The third event, which occurred in February, saw two Aussie chefs—Henry James of Bones and Shaun Kelly of Yard—combine their techniques and flavors to serve up to 40 hungry diners a Middle Eastern feast of shawarma de mouton with dates, duck with za’atar, and cauliflower with sesame and spices. The wine flowed generously and by evening’s end, musical chairs had begun, with groups mixing and mingling to the beat.

Promenades Gourmandes with Paule Caillat
Anyone who fancies themselves a budding Julia Child might want to take a cooking class from the bilingual Parisienne Paule Caillat, who teaches from her home kitchen in the Marais. While she’s widely known for her Brown Butter Tart Crust, she’ll customize the course based on the group’s preferences and tastes. Like cheese? Hold your nose, and she’ll bring out the Camembert. Have a thing for pastries? Out comes the sugar and flour. The intimate classes start at 290 Euros per person for a group of 4 and are capped at 8 students. They begin at 9 a.m. with a shop at a local market for ingredients and end after your four-course lunch around 3 p.m.

Promenades Gourmandes
38 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, Paris, 75003
+33 1 48 04 56 84

Pastry Classes with Christophe Michalak
Who doesn’t love a star chef? The handsome pastry chef hosted France’s Le Gâteau de Mes Rêves (Cake of my Dreams) and judged Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier? (Who’s the Next Great Pâtissier?), but prior to becoming a TV personality, Christophe Michalak learned the pastry trade by working the ovens at Fauchon, Pierre Hermé, and Ladurée. In 2013, he opened his own training school, which offers a number of three-hour classes to students with a sweet tooth, one of which is taught by the master himself for 280 Euro.

Belleville Brulerie Tasting
While the image of a beautiful Parisian sitting on a wicker chair outside a café sipping a small coffee is quintessential Paris, what’s in that cup is often far from fabulous. Thankfully, there’s now a host of cool coffee shops and roasters putting a stronger emphasis on the coffee-making process from bean to pour. The 18-month-old Belleville Brulerie in the 19th arrondissement is one such example, where a duo of dudes named David Flynn and Thomas Lehoux are sourcing their beans far and wide, from Ethiopia and Honduras, to Mexico and Costa Rica, and roasting onsite two days a week. They then provide approximately 30 local restaurants and 10 others worldwide with “the opportunity to taste delicious coffee,” says Lehoux. While they’re mainly retail-focused, selling beans and brewing products alike, they do open their doors to the public on Saturday mornings for a pre-booked, one-hour dégustation. The class is limited to 8 people, costs only 20 Euros, and comes with a bag of coffee.

Belleville Brulerie
10 Rue Pradier, Paris, 75019
+33 1 98 37 56 08

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