Breads | Saveur

Cream of Artichoke Soup

Duarte’s Tavern — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:51:47 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

“After my parents’ divorce in the 1970s, Mom and I did the best we could to cobble a new family unit together. Part of that was creating new traditions. We found one in our regular pilgrimages to Duarte’s Tavern in Pescadero, California. After a two-hour drive from our Bay Area home and a brisk walk along the craggy coast, we would head to Duarte’s and warm up over steamy bowls of cream of artichoke soup.

Opened in 1894, Duarte’s was everything you wanted a California diner to be, and it still is. Unlike other such establishments, which have been what I like to call “arugulaized,” Duarte’s still serves classics like BLTs and burgers along with local specialties, including Pacific-caught fish and plenty of artichoke dishes. Then there are the desserts, my favorite being the olallieberry pie, made with the tangy West Coast hybrid fruit. It’s quite possibly the best pie on Earth. My mother is gone now. But when I go back to Duarte’s for a bowl of that artichoke soup, I can’t help thinking I’m keeping our relationship alive.” —James Oseland

Featured in “The SAVEUR 100” in the January/February 2013 issue.

Makes: 6

Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

Ingredients

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 lb. thawed frozen artichoke hearts, coarsely chopped
3 cups chicken stock
2 cups heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Lemon wedges and sourdough bread, for serving

Instructions

In a medium pot over medium heat, melt the butter. When the foam subsides, add the garlic and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 8 minutes. Add the artichokes and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are very tender, about 20 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor and carefully purée (or purée in the pot using an immersion blender). Return to the pot, add the cream, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by a third, about 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve with lemon wedges and sourdough bread on the side.

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Tsoureki (Greek Easter Bread)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:57 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Ben Weiner

Tsoureki is a sweet, brioche-like Greek Easter bread that’s braided and shaped into a circle or two long loaves. It’s typically perfumed with mahlepi, the seeds of Mediterranean wild cherries, and adorned with red-dyed eggs, which signify spring and new life, while the deep crimson hue represents the blood of Christ. The Lenten fast is traditionally broken with tsoureki, magiritsa (a lamb soup finished with avgolemono sauce), and a bowl of red Easter eggs. You can also sprinkle the loaves with sesame seeds or sliced almonds after brushing them with egg wash in step 5.

Makes: 2 loaves

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Ingredients

2 cups whole milk, warmed to 100°F
Two ¼-oz. packages active dry yeast
9–10 cups cake flour, divided, plus more for dusting
1½ cups sugar, divided
2 tsp. mahlepi
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for greasing
6 large eggs, divided
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. grated orange zest
2 red-dyed hard-boiled eggs

Instructions

In a large bowl, stir together the milk and yeast until the yeast is dissolved. Stir in 1 cup of the flour and ½ cup of the sugar. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside until bubbly and slightly risen, about 1 hour.
To a small bowl, add the mahlepi and ½ cup of simmering water and soak for 5 minutes. Strain into a liquid measuring cup, discarding the mahlepi, and set the liquid aside to cool.
To the yeast mixture, stir in the mahlepi-scented liquid. Mix in the butter and 5 of the eggs. Sift in the salt, 8 cups of the flour, and the remaining sugar. Add the lemon and orange zest and stir with a wooden spoon until combined. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and knead, adding more flour if needed, until smooth, about 10 minutes. Form into a ball and place in a lightly greased bowl. Cover with a kitchen towel and set aside until doubled in size, about 2 hours.
Return the dough to a floured surface. Divide into 6 pieces, rolling each piece into a rope about 15 inches long. For each loaf, tightly braid 3 ropes, then press 1 dyed egg near the end of each braid. Set aside on a lightly greased baking sheet until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining egg. Brush the bread with the beaten egg and bake until golden, 40–50 minutes. Set aside to cool for 30 minutes before serving

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Hot Cross Buns

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:37 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Ben Weiner • Props: Dinnerware by Jono Pandolfi

Traditionally served on Good Friday to mark the end of Lent, these sweet yeasted rolls are fragrant with allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg and are finished with a white icing cross. They’re also dotted with dried currants and candied citrus peel and brushed with marmalade for a glossy sheen. Hot cross buns are best served warm, freshly glazed and iced.

Makes: 10

Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

Ingredients

1 lemon
1 navel orange
1½ cups sugar, divided
¾ cup dried currants
Ground allspice
Ground cinnamon
Ground nutmeg
1 cup whole milk, warmed to 115°F
1½ tsp. active dry yeast
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 cups bread flour
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing
2 tsp. kosher salt
2 large eggs, lightly beaten, divided
¼ cup orange marmalade
¼ cup confectioners sugar

Instructions

Using a vegetable peeler, remove sections of the lemon peel in 1-inch strips. Using a paring knife, trim off any of the white pith, then thinly slice the strips. Repeat with the orange.
To a small pot over high heat, add 1 cup of the sugar and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Cook until the sugar is dissolved, 1–2 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-low, add the lemon and orange peel strips, and simmer until slightly translucent, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool, then drain. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the currants and a pinch each of allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, stir together the milk and yeast and set aside until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add both flours, the butter, salt, remaining sugar, and half of the beaten egg and mix on low until a smooth dough forms, 8–10 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and fold in the fruit mixture until evenly distributed. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and set aside until doubled in size, 60–80 minutes.
Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces and roll each piece into a ball. Place the balls on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with the kitchen towel, and set aside until doubled in size again, 45–60 minutes.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining beaten egg with 1 tablespoon of water. Lightly brush each bun with the egg wash. Bake, rotating the baking sheet halfway through, until the tops are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Set aside to cool for 15 minutes.
To a small pot over low heat, add the orange marmalade and 1 tablespoon of water and cook, stirring continuously, until the marmalade loosens, about 2 minutes. Brush each bun with the marmalade glaze and set aside until the glaze sets, about 10 minutes more.
In a small bowl, stir together the confectioners sugar and 2 teaspoons of water. Transfer to a piping bag and pipe crosses on the buns. Serve warm.

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Crown Roast of Pork With Corn and Apple Stuffing

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:42:26 +0000

Jenny Huang

A crown roast of pork with stuffing mounded in the middle is a dramatic presentation piece—and it’s very easy to carve: Just slice between the ribs and serve one or two chops per person.

Featured in the December 1998 issue.

Makes: 10–14

Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

7½ oz. dried toasted sweet corn
5–6 cups coarse sourdough breadcrumbs
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
4 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
½ cup finely chopped parsley leaves
2 Tbsp. finely chopped sage leaves
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup chicken stock
1 large egg, lightly beaten
One 12–16-rib crown roast of pork
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions

To a large heatproof bowl, add the corn and 2½ cups of boiling water. Set aside to soak until soft, about 1 hour. Drain the corn, squeezing out excess water, and return it to the bowl. Add the breadcrumbs and mix well.
Meanwhile, position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350°F. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the celery and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften and the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the parsley, sage, and apples and season to taste with salt and black pepper.
Stir the celery and onion mixture into the breadcrumb mixture. Stir in the stock and egg and season with salt and black pepper.
Place the pork in a roasting pan, rub with the oil, and season with salt and black pepper. Fill the center of the roast with stuffing and put any remaining stuffing in a large baking dish. Bake the pork on the lower rack, covering the stuffing with foil if it starts to brown too quickly, until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 165°F, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. While the pork is in the oven, place the extra stuffing on the upper rack and bake until it is cooked through and browned on top, about 45 minutes. Set the pork aside to rest for 15 minutes, then carve and serve.

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Gougères

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:11 +0000

Christopher Testani

A longtime favorite of SAVEUR staffers and readers, these irresistible French cheese puffs are the perfect hors d’oeuvre. Believed to originally come from Burgundy, these savory choux pastries are commonly made with grated Gruyère, but Comté or Emmentaler work just as well. If you want to make gougères ahead, freeze them after scooping them into balls, ideally directly on the baking sheet, then bake them straight from the freezer (they will need a few additional minutes in the oven). Gougères are best enjoyed when they are still warm but can also be served at room temperature, making them perfect for parties.

Featured in “Our Best Recipes of All Time” in the Winter 2019 issue.

Makes: 45

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Ingredients

½ cup whole milk
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, at room temperature
6 oz. Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated (1½ cups)

Instructions

Position two racks in the center and lower third of the oven and preheat to 425°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment and set aside.
To a medium pot over high heat, add the milk, butter, salt, and ½ cup water, and bring to a boil. Add the flour and use a wooden spoon to beat the mixture until a soft dough forms. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring continuously, until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pot, 2–3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, then use a hand mixer to beat in 1 egg until smooth. Repeat with the remaining eggs until all are incorporated, then stir in the cheese.
Using a 1-ounce scoop or medium spoon, portion 2 tablespoon-size scoops of batter onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing at least 2 inches apart. Quickly transfer the gougères to the oven and immediately turn the temperature to 375°F. Bake until firm and pale golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Lgeimat (Saffron Fritters)

Mariam Saeed — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:59 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Thu Buser

These fluffy fritters, soaked in a syrup flavored with saffron, cardamom, and cinnamon, are an Emirati version of luqaimat (little bites), doughnut-like treats served throughout the Middle East, especially during Ramadan.

Featured in “Breaking the Fast” by Anissa Helou in the August/September 2011 issue.

Makes: About 2½ dozen

Time: 44 minutes

Ingredients

For the syrup:

2 cups sugar
2 tsp. saffron threads
2 green cardamom pods, crushed
1 cinnamon stick
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

For the fritters:

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ cup plain Greek yogurt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Vegetable oil, for frying

Instructions

Make the syrup: To a small pot over medium-high heat, add the sugar, saffron, cardamom, cinnamon, and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for 30 minutes.
Pour the syrup through a fine-mesh strainer into a medium bowl and stir in the lemon juice. Set aside.
Make the fritters: In a large bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, sugar, baking soda, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, egg, and ½ cup of water. Add to the flour mixture and stir with a fork just until a dough forms. Set aside for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, line a baking sheet or large plate with paper towels. Into a large pot fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour 2 inches of oil and turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reaches 360°F, working in batches and using a ½-ounce ice cream scoop or tablespoon-size measuring spoon, drop balls of dough into the oil and fry, tossing, until golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Transfer the fritters to the prepared baking sheet to drain briefly, then transfer to a large shallow serving dish or platter.
Pour the syrup over the fritters and toss to coat evenly. Serve immediately.

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Irish Potato Farls

Kaitlin Hill — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:26 +0000

Photo: Heami Lee • Food Styling: Camille Becerra

For most Americans, St. Patrick’s Day is monopolized by green beer and bad decisions. It’s a day when you can get away with drinking past your limit and kissing perfect strangers just because they’re wearing green. But for me, a daughter of Northern Irish parents, St. Patrick’s Day is an opportunity to celebrate my heritage, spend time with my family, and most importantly, indulge in my favorite Irish foods.

The best meal in our weekend of Irish-only eating is my mom’s Irish breakfast—known as the Ulster Fry in Ireland—with over-easy eggs, bacon, Irish-style bangers, and my favorite, freshly made potato farls, or potato bread. When my mom pulls out the pots and pans to prepare breakfast, it’s the dish we’re all most eagerly awaiting: Pillowy squares of dough made with mashed potatoes, with a crisp, golden exterior thanks to a final fry in bacon fat.

Initially created to avoid wasting leftover mashed potatoes—of which the Irish have plenty—the recipe has been in our family for years, passed down to my mom from my grandmother, Myrtle. And although the dough is made up of humble ingredients and prepared using simple techniques, the finished product is extraordinary—it’s so reminiscent of what you would find in one of the cozy little pubs that line the streets of Belfast that, with one bite, I feel instantly transported and connected to the generations of my family that made and enjoyed the same type of bread in Ireland.

As most St. Patrick’s Day revelers are recovering from hangovers and scrubbing themselves clean of green sequins, I’ll be settling into a lovely little meal with my mom, dad, and brother. And you can bet I’ll enjoy my fair share of mom’s potato bread—the ideal vehicle for sopping up runny egg yolk and finishing off that last bit of bacon for the perfect final bite. —Kaitlin Hill

Makes: 20 squares

Time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

1½ cups self-rising flour, plus more for dusting
2 Tbsp. cold bacon fat or unsalted butter, cubed, plus more for frying
2 tsp. kosher salt
1½ cups mashed potatoes (about 3 large potatoes, boiled until tender and mashed with a potato masher or fork)
¼ cup whole milk
2 scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 400°F.
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, bacon fat, and salt until pea-size crumbs form. Stir in the mashed potatoes and milk to form a smooth dough. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and roll out into a 10-inch square. Cut into twenty 2½-inch squares, rerolling the dough as needed. Transfer the squares to two parchment-lined baking sheets.
Bake, rotating the baking sheets halfway through, until the bread is light golden brown, about 20 minutes. Using a spatula, transfer the bread to a wire rack and set aside to cool.
In a large skillet over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of bacon fat. Working in batches, add the bread and cook, turning once and adding more bacon fat as needed, until warmed through and golden, about 1 minute per side. Top with scallions if desired and serve warm.

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Coquito French Toast

Ana Sofia Peláez — Fri, 14 Dec 2012 23:20:03 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Thu Buser

Coquito, which means “little coconut” in Spanish, is a creamy coconut and rum cocktail that’s traditionally served or gifted at Christmastime in Puerto Rico. Here, it serves as the custard for a luxurious breakfast casserole that falls somewhere between a decadent French toast and a boozy bread pudding. This recipe comes to us from Ana Sofia Peláez, creator of the Latin food blog Hungry Sofia and author of the cookbook The Cuban Table: A Celebration of Food, Flavors, and History. Whether you make your own coquito using whole coconuts or canned coconut milk, or go the store-bought route, this challah French toast is perfect for a holiday brunch.

Makes: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Ingredients

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into ½-in. pieces, plus more for greasing
1 loaf challah bread (about 1 lb.), cut into 1-in. slices
2 cups coquito
Confectioners sugar, ground cinnamon, and maple syrup, for serving

Instructions

Grease a 9- by 13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish with butter. Arrange the bread slices in a single layer in the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. Pour the coquito over the bread. Set aside to soak, flipping the slices halfway through, until almost all of the liquid is absorbed, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Dot the bread with the pieces of butter. Bake until puffed and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Dust with confectioners sugar and cinnamon, drizzle with maple syrup, and serve.

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Estela’s Tomato Toast

Ignacio Mattos — Wed, 24 Jul 2019 17:44:33 +0000

Marcus Nilsson (Courtesy Artisan)

Ignacio Mattos, the chef at New York City’s celebrated Estela, likes to use milky, buttery Fromager d’Affinois for this open-faced tomato sandwich, but Brie or any triple-cream French cheese would also be delicious here. The flaky sea salt can be swapped out for gray salt.

Featured in “The Best Tomato Sandwich Isn’t a Sandwich at All” by Marian Bull.

Makes: 1

Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients

2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
One scant ¼-in.-thick slice pumpernickel or other dense, seeded bread, crusts removed
1 garlic clove
2 Tbsp. Fromager d’Affinois, Brie, or triple-cream French cheese, softened (with or without rind, as desired)
1 firm-ripe heirloom tomato, sliced into ⅛-in.-thick rounds
2 pinches flaky sea salt

Instructions

To a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, add 1 teaspoon of the oil. Add the bread and toast, pressing down with the back of a spatula so it cooks evenly, until well charred and deep brown on both sides, about 5 minutes total. (It’s okay to have a few blackened bits; if the edges are burnt, just slice them off.)
Rub one side of the toast lightly with the garlic, then spread the cheese on top in a light, even layer. Season the tomato slices with flaky salt.
Arrange the tomato slices on the toast, letting them drape over the sides. Drizzle with the remaining oil and serve immediately.

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Pan con Tomate

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:27 +0000

Photo: Linda Xiao • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling: Summer Moore

Pan con tomate translates as bread with tomato, and that’s basically all it is. But what a combination! The dish originated in northern Spain, in the region of Catalonia. There, it’s known as pa amb tomaquet, and it’s usually eaten at lunch or dinner, as a light side dish. But down south in Andalusia, pan con tomate is more often eaten in the morning, and it’s a hearty and luscious food. Its simplicity belies the pleasure that comes whenever it is served. All you need is good-quality olive oil, bread, garlic, a ripe tomato, and a sprinkle of sea salt.

Use the largest holes on a box grater to get at the juicy meat of a beefsteak tomato, discarding most of its skin as you go. Next, rub pieces of toasted baguette with a clove of garlic, drizzle them with olive oil, and top with the sweet grated tomato and a sprinkle of sea salt.

Makes: 4

Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients

Two 6-in. pieces baguette, halved lengthwise
2 garlic cloves, peeled
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 very ripe large tomatoes
Coarse sea salt

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 500°F. Place the baguette halves on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Using your fingers, rub the garlic over the cut surface of the toasts, then drizzle with oil.
Place a box grater over a large bowl and grate the cut sides of the tomatoes over the largest holes, discarding the skins. Spoon the grated tomatoes onto the toasts, sprinkle with sea salt, and serve immediately.

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Salmorejo

Alex Raij — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:23 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jessie YuChen

I first encountered salmorejo—gazpacho‘s thicker, more decadent cousin—in Madrid. The cool and creamy tomato soup transcended seasonality. It was topped with egg and jamón ibérico, which wept fatty tears over its surface. Salmorejo demands that you act as a Spaniard and mop up every drop with bread. Then, like an American, you order another bowl.

Makes: 8

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Ingredients

3 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
8 plum tomatoes, halved and seeded
1 baguette (10 oz.), preferably stale, cut into large pieces
1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped
½ small yellow onion
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar, plus more to taste
1½ cups finely chopped Ibérico or serrano ham, or prosciutto
3 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped

Instructions

To a blender, add the salt, tomatoes, baguette, garlic, onion, and enough boiling water to cover; set aside for 1 hour.
Reserve 1 cup of the liquid. Drain the vegetables and return them to the blender. Add the oil, vinegar, and reserved liquid. Purée until silky, then season with salt and additional vinegar to taste. Refrigerate until chilled.
Pour the salmorejo into eight bowls and top evenly with the ham, eggs, and a drizzle of oil.

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