Leah Koenig Archives | Saveur

Double Chocolate Macaroons

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:54 +0000

Photo: Matt Taylor-Gross • Food Styling: Ben Weiner

For this luscious dessert from cookbook author Leah Koenig, the traditional coconut macaroon gets a double dose of chocolate: cocoa powder and semisweet chocolate chips. These chewy, decadent treats are also gluten-free and perfect for Passover.

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: 40 minutes

Ingredients

2¼ cups unsweetened shredded coconut
⅔ cup sugar
¼ cup cocoa powder, sifted
2 tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. kosher salt
3 large egg whites
½ cup semisweet chocolate chips

Instructions

To a small pot over medium-low heat, add the coconut, sugar, cocoa powder, vanilla, salt, and egg whites and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly thickened and sticky, 5–6 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside to cool for 20 minutes, then stir in the chocolate chips.
Meanwhile, position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 325°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment.
Using a tablespoon, portion and roll the coconut mixture into balls, then transfer to the prepared baking sheets, spacing 1 inch apart. Bake, rotating and swapping the baking sheets halfway through, until the macaroons are just set, about 20 minutes. (Be careful not to overbake as the cookies will firm up as they cool.) Transfer to a wire rack and set aside to cool completely. Stored in an airtight container, the macaroons will keep for up to 4 days.

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Morel and Asparagus Spaghetti

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:23:00 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling: Jason Schreiber

In this bright spring pasta dish of morels and asparagus, dried morels are rehydrated in boiling water, then the water is used to cook the spaghetti—infusing it with an earthy, mushroomy flavor. If you can get your hands on fresh morels (we sourced ours from Baldor), this recipe is just as delectable made with the fleeting fungi—just skip straight to boiling the pasta in step 2. Either way, a simple sauce of cream, parmesan, and lemon allows the main ingredients to shine through.

Featured in “One Ingredient, Many Ways: Mushrooms.”

Order the SAVEUR Selects Nitri-Black Carbon Steel 10-Inch Frying Pan here.

Makes: 6

Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

5 dried morel mushrooms (about ½ oz.); or substitute 5 fresh morels, halved lengthwise
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. spaghetti
¼ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 medium shallots, finely chopped
1 lb. asparagus (about 1 bunch), ends trimmed, cut into 1-in. pieces
¾ cup vegetable stock
½ cup heavy cream
¼ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

If using dried morels, to a large heatproof bowl, add the morels and 8 cups of boiling water. Set aside until rehydrated and tender, about 30 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the morels to a cutting board and halve lengthwise. Set aside.
Place a fine-mesh strainer over a large pot and pour through most of the soaking liquid, discarding any dirt or sediment at the bottom of the bowl. Add additional water to the pot if needed for cooking pasta, then bring to a boil. Season generously with salt. Add the spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente according to the package instructions. Drain and set aside.
Meanwhile, to a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil and butter. When the butter melts, add the garlic and shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add the asparagus, stock, and reserved morels and bring to a boil. Cover and cook until the asparagus is tender, about 3 minutes. Uncover, add the cream, and continue cooking until the liquid is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes more.
Remove from the heat and toss in the parmesan, lemon zest and juice, and reserved pasta until evenly combined. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Drizzle with more oil, sprinkle with more parmesan, and serve immediately.

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Quadrucci in Brodo con Spinaci (Pasta Squares and Spinach in Broth)

Leah Koenig — Wed, 20 Sep 2023 14:03:02 +0000

Reprinted from Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome's Jewish Kitchen by Leah Koenig. Copyright © 2023 by Leah Koenig. Used with permission of the publisher, W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2023 by Kristin Teig

This brothy soup, adapted from Leah Koenig’s new cookbook Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen, is often eaten by Roman Jews to break the Yom Kippur fast. Fresh pasta dough is thinly rolled, cut into tiny squares known as quadrucci, then briefly cooked in a warm broth with sauteed onion and spinach. After a day of fasting, the fresh flavor of the soup and the toothsome squares of pasta make it a wholly revitalizing return to everyday eating. This recipe embodies the Italian word “casareccio” and the Yiddish word “haimish”, both of which translate to homemade. It’s also an ideal introduction to pasta “fatto a mano” (made by hand, no special equipment required), but you can also use a pasta machine to roll out the dough before cutting. Use sturdy full-leaf spinach for this recipe; delicate baby spinach isn’t suited for extended cooking in the broth.

Time: 7 hours

Ingredients

For the pasta:

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten

For the broth:

8 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
½ tsp. kosher salt
1 lb. spinach, stems discarded, leaves rinsed and coarsely chopped
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

Instructions

Make the pasta: In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the flour, oil, eggs, salt, and 2 tablespoons of warm water together on low speed until a shaggy dough forms. (If the dough looks dry, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time.) Switch to the dough hook attachment and knead on medium speed until smooth and elastic, 5–7 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and form it into a disk, then wrap tightly in plastic wrap and set aside to rest for at least 1 hour (up to 8).
Line a baking sheet with parchment. Quarter the dough and rewrap all but one portion. On a lightly floured work surface, use a floured rolling pin to roll the dough quarter into a 1/16-inch-thick rectangle. Trim the ragged edges.Using a sharp knife or pizza cutter, cut the dough lengthwise into ½-inch-wide strips, then cut the strips crosswise into squares. Spread the quadrucci on the baking sheet (it is okay if they overlap a little) and repeat the process with the remaining dough.
Fill a large pot with the stock and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, to a large skillet, add the oil, onion, and salt and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Add the spinach and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, 1–2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest.
To the boiling stock, add the quadrucci and cook, stirring occasionally, until they float to the surface and are al dente, 2–3 minutes. To serve, divide the spinach mixture among six bowls, then ladle with the broth and quadrucci.

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Apple Fritters With Vanilla Sugar

Leah Koenig — Tue, 12 Sep 2023 18:41:38 +0000

This recipe, adapted from Leah Koenig’s new book Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen, is a perfect dessert to end a Rosh Hashana dinner or any autumnal feast. It takes inspiration from two sources: The first is a handwritten cookbook, Dal 1880 ad Oggi: La Cucina Ebraica della Mia Famiglia, which Koenig encountered in her initial research during the COVID-19 pandemic. The book was written by Donatella Limentani Pavoncello, a Roman Jew who took shelter in Catholic convents during World War II and later documented her heritage and history through food. The second source of inspiration comes from the friggitori (“fryers”) of the Jewish Ghetto neighborhood of Rome. During the 300-year-long period in which Jews were forced to live within a gated four-block portion of the city, Jewish street vendors used inexpensive oil and scraps of ingredients to make delicious fried snacks for passersby. Now the fritti tradition, perfectly applied in this recipe to firm crisp apples that fry up in a flash, is foundational to the city of Rome and its culinary culture.

Makes: 6–8

Time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

For the vanilla sugar:

¾ cup sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and pod reserved

For the apple fritters:

1½ cups all-purpose flour
3 Tbsp. sugar
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. kosher salt
1½ cups milk
4 large Honeycrisp or Granny Smith apples (1½ lb.) apples (1½ lb.), peeled, cored, and sliced into ½-inch thick rings
Vegetable oil, for frying

Instructions

Make the vanilla sugar: In a food processor, pulse the sugar and vanilla seeds until combined. Transfer to a jar, bury the reserved pod in it, and cover tightly. (The sugar can be used right away, but it can also be stored at room temperature for up to 1 year.)
Make the apple fritters: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. Add the milk and whisk until smooth.
Into a large skillet, pour the oil to a depth of ½ inch and turn the heat to medium-high. When it’s hot and shimmering, working in batches, dip the apple rings into the batter, let the excess drip off, and carefully slide them into the oil. Fry until golden brown, 2–3 minutes per side. Using tongs or a spider skimmer, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Sprinkle with the vanilla sugar and serve immediately. (Reserve the remaining vanilla sugar for another use.)

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Chocolate Cupcakes With Goat Cheese Frosting

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:13 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

Softened goat cheese adds delightful tang to these bittersweet chocolate cupcakes from cookbook author Leah Koenig. Vanilla bean gives the frosting a pretty, faintly speckled look. If you prefer a pure-white topping, good quality vanilla extract is a fine substitute.

Makes: Makes 12 Cupcakes

Time: 3 hours

Ingredients

For the cupcakes:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. fine sea salt
½ cup strong coffee
½ cup vegetable oil
½ cup whole milk
½ tsp. vanilla extract
1 large egg

For the frosting:

4 oz. cream cheese, softened
3 oz. goat cheese, softened
1½ cups confectioners sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped (pod reserved for another use)

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line a cupcake pan with 12 paper liners and set aside.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add the coffee, oil, and milk and whisk until combined, then whisk in the vanilla and eggs to create a thick batter.
Using an ice cream scoop or large spoon, divide the batter evenly among the cupcake liners (each should be about two-thirds full). Bake, rotating halfway through cooking, until the cupcake tops are golden and just firm and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 20–22 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely in the pan, about 2 hours, then unmold the cupcakes.
Meanwhile, make the frosting: Using an electric hand mixer or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the cream cheese and goat cheese on medium-high speed until fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add ¾ cup of the confectioners sugar, beat to incorporate, then add the vanilla seeds and the remaining confectioners sugar and beat on low speed until thick and creamy. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to frost.
To serve, use a spoon to evenly spread the chocolate cupcakes with the frosting, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, at least 30 minutes. Frosted cupcakes keep well for up to 3 days in the fridge.

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Seared Salmon With Blackberry-Wine Sauce

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:46 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAOLA + MURRAY; FOOD STYLING BY OLIVIA MACK MCCOOL; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

A rich, sweet-tart sauce adorns crispy skin-on salmon fillets in this easy dish from cookbook author Leah Koenig. While to some the combination of fish and fruit may feel like a return to the 1980s, here it offers a warm, summery contrast that’s perfectly seasonal.

Featured in “One Ingredient, Many Ways.”

Makes: 4

Ingredients

2 cups fresh or frozen blackberries
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
¼ cup dry red wine
½ tsp. grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
One 2-in. piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Four 6-oz. skin-on salmon fillets, pin bones removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup vegetable oil

Instructions

In a small pot over medium heat, bring the blackberries, brown sugar, wine, lemon zest and juice, and ginger to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the berries break down, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool for 10 minutes.
Discard the ginger, then transfer the berry mixture to a blender and pulse until smooth. Place a fine-mesh sieve or strainer over the empty pot and strain the sauce, discarding the solids. Return the sauce to low heat and stir in the butter. Keep warm until ready to serve.
In a large skillet over medium-high, heat half the oil. Pat the salmon dry and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Working in two batches and adding the remaining oil as needed, add the fish to the skillet and cook, skin side down and flipping once, until the skin is crisp and the salmon is cooked through, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a platter, spoon the blackberry sauce on top, and serve warm.

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Asparagus Mint Slaw

Leah Koenig — Thu, 04 Mar 2021 03:41:56 +0000

Photo: Murray Hall • Food Styling by Jason Schreiber • Prop Styling by Carla Gonzalez-Hart

The season’s first asparagus, paired with crunchy carrots and radishes, is tossed with mint and vinegar in this spring slaw from cookbook author Leah Koenig. Check out all of our favorite asparagus recipes here. For cooking tips, here is how we like to cook asparagus on the stove.

Makes: 4

Time: 10 minutes

Ingredients

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup coarsely chopped mint leaves
5 pink radishes, cut into thin matchsticks or thinly sliced
4 scallions, dark green parts removed, thinly sliced
2 carrots, cut into thin matchsticks or shredded using a box grater
2 oz. asparagus, fibrous bottoms snapped off, shaved into ribbons using a vegetable peeler

Instructions

To a salad bowl, add the oil, vinegar, and garlic, season to taste with salt and black pepper, and whisk until sheeny and thickened slightly. Add the mint, radishes, scallions, carrots, and asparagus and toss to coat.

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Cranberry Bread

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:15 +0000

Photography: Linda Pugliese; Food Stylist: Mariana Velasquez; Prop Stylist: Elvis Maynard

Some 4,000 years before the wheel was invented, people were already cooking with farro, the ancient—and currently trendy—heirloom wheat you’ve probably seen in soups, salads, and stuffings. But as Leah Koenig makes the case in her 2012 article “One Ingredient, Many Ways: Farro,” the grain also shines in desserts, where it adds moisture and textural intrigue. In this low-effort-high-reward quick bread, farro explores its sweet, autumnal side with the help of brown sugar, honey, and a hefty handful of dried cranberries.

Featured in: “One Ingredient, Many Ways: Farro.”

Makes: makes 1 loaf

Time: 5 hours

Ingredients

1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. fine salt
½ cups dried cranberries or dried cherries
1¼ cups buttermilk
¾ cups cooked farro, cooled to room temperature
¼ cups honey
¼ cups packed light or dark brown sugar
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing
2 large eggs

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Grease and lightly flour a loaf pan.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, then stir in the cranberries.
To a large bowl, add the buttermilk, farro, honey, brown sugar, butter, and eggs, and stir to combine. Fold in the flour mixture in two batches, mixing until just incorporated (do not overmix). Scrape the batter into the loaf pan and bake until browned on top and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Transfer to a wire rack to cool slightly, about 15 minutes, then turn out the loaf onto the rack. Cool completely before slicing.

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Lemony Fried Cauliflower

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:17 +0000

Photography: Belle Morizio; Food Styling: Victoria Granof; Prop Styling: Dayna Seman

For culupidia frita con limón, a popular street food in Israel, florets are coated in a flour and egg batter, and then fried. The recipe comes from Jewish cookbook author Leah Koenig, who says she showers each bite with fresh lemon juice. Whether fried, steamed, roasted, or stewed, cauliflower takes well to almost any method. Here are 19 more ways we love to cook it.

Makes: serves 4-6

Time: 40 minutes

Ingredients

1 head cauliflower (2 lb.), cored and cut into 1-in. florets
Vegetable oil, for frying
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 tsp. fine salt, plus more for serving
1 tsp. turmeric
Freshly ground black pepper
5 large eggs
Chopped parsley, for garnish
Lemon wedges, for squeezing

Instructions

Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Fill a large Dutch oven with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add the cauliflower and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain the cauliflower and transfer it to the ice bath to cool, about 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the cauliflower to a paper towel-lined baking sheet, and pat all over with paper towels to dry. Rinse and thoroughly dry the Dutch oven and return it to the stove.
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs until combined, and set aside. Into the empty Dutch oven, pour the oil to a depth of 2 inches, attach a deep-fry thermometer, and turn the heat to medium-high. While the oil is preheating, in a shallow baking dish, whisk together the flour, lemon zest, cayenne, salt, turmeric, and black pepper to taste.
Line a baking sheet with paper towels. When the thermometer reads 350°F, dredge a few cauliflower florets in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess. Transfer to the egg to coat, then return to the flour mixture to dredge again. Fry, flipping occasionally, until crisp and golden, about 45 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cauliflower to the baking sheet and season with salt and black pepper while hot. Working in batches, repeat with the remaining cauliflower.
To serve, transfer the cauliflower to a platter, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve with lemon wedges, for squeezing.

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Behind the Recipe: Chocolate-Raspberry Babka

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:44:48 +0000

Photography by Sang An

When I began dreaming up recipes for my new cookbook, Modern Jewish Cooking: Recipes & Customs for Today’s Kitchen (Chronicle, March 2015), including a babka felt like a given. Originating from the shtetls of Eastern Europe (its name comes from the Slavic word for grandmother), the classic Jewish dessert takes time, strong kneading arms, and a certain amount of swagger. But the investment pays off in a showstopping dessert with a fluffy brioche texture and Van Gogh swirls of cinnamon or chocolate.

I couldn’t decide, though: Did I want my babka to be majestically puffed and streusel-topped like the classic New York delicatessen babka of Seinfeld fame? Or perhaps a bit squatter, like the dense, striated kokosh cake, the Hungarian Jewish take on babka? Should I go cinnamon, or chocolate?

Ultimately, I consulted the experts: Breads Bakery. Over the past few years Breads, the Manhattan outpost of breadsmith Uri Scheft’s beloved Tel Aviv chain, has almost singlehandedly reinvigorated the New York babka scene with its spiraled rope of butter-rich dough, filled with fudgy ripples of Nutella and melted chocolate. Breads’ babka has the crackly, laminated crumb of a cinnamon roll and a beautiful, lacquered shine from a layer of simple syrup painted over top; I wanted my babka to have both, too.

When making babka in the past, the recipes I used always instructed the baker to wind the dough up like a jelly roll and give it several hearty twists before placing it in the loaf pan. That’s fine, but tends to leave large bites of babka with no filling. Scheft’s technique is different, and brilliant: He slices the roll lengthwise, creating two long ropes with their filling exposed, then twists the ropes together so that the filling reaches into every last corner.

When it came to the dough, I knew I wanted to use butter. Many store-bought babkas use oil instead in order to render them_ parve_, meaning suitable to eat during either a dairy or meat meal according to the kosher laws. But I’m a fan of the maxim “butter is better,” so after mixing the bubbly yeast and water into the flour, I added a stick, cut into small pieces and kneaded into the dough to evenly distribute its sunny richness.

Finally, I decided to infuse my version with a little fruit. The tart clusters of raspberries that I ate straight from my neighbor’s yard every summer as a child sprang to mind, and into the filling went several spoonfuls of raspberry jam. To infuse the loaf with even more raspberry flavor, I steeped the simple syrup with smashed whole berries, imparting the final product with a gorgeous, ruby sheen that beckons almost as strongly as its smell. The end result was at once familiar and surprising—and entirely worth the effort.

See the recipe for Chocolate-Raspberry Babka »

The post Behind the Recipe: Chocolate-Raspberry Babka appeared first on Saveur.

Glorious Gelt

Leah Koenig — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:38:09 +0000

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When I was growing up, I couldn’t wait for Hanukkah. I looked forward to lighting candles on the menorah and to oil-crisped potato latkes topped with applesauce. But more than anything else, I yearned for the chocolate. My parents would give my brother and me mesh bags of foil-wrapped chocolate coins as gifts, which we’d use as edible ante while spinning the four-sided Hanukkah top, the dreidel. I indulged heartily in my winnings, littering tabletops with piles of glinting wrappers and savoring the snap of each delicately molded coin between my teeth and the rush of sweet chocolate that followed.

We were delighting in a centuries-old tradition. The practice of exchanging these chocolate coins, known as gelt (“money” in Yiddish) can be traced to 18th-century Eastern Europe, where Jews gave small monetary gifts on Hanukkah. After many of those Jews immigrated to America, where Hanukkah assumed the role of Christmas’ seasonal counterpart, American candy companies quickly recognized gelt-giving’s potential and made the first chocolate versions in the 1920s.

Since then, gelt has become an international business, and today, many of the millions of pounds of gelt eaten in the States every year are mass-produced, waxy, and not very good. So I’ve been thrilled that artisan chocolatiers from all over the world have started creating top-notch chocolate coins (see five favorites below) that have me pining for dreidel games all over again.

1. Artisan du Chocolat ($5 for a 2-oz. bag) This London chocolate maker blends its own chocolate for these creamy milk chocolate coins.

2. Debauve & Gallais ($36 for a 4-oz. box) Made by a Parisian chocolatier, De Marie Antoinette dark chocolate coins, embossed with the chocolatier’s coat of arms, are flavored with Earl Grey and orange blossom.

3. Divine Chocolate ($3 for a 1.75-oz. bag) A Ghana-based cooperative supplies Fair Trade-certified cocoa butter for this fruity, wonderfully chewy milk chocolate gelt.

4. Phillips Candy House ($35 for 100) These small-batch milk chocolate coins, made by a fourth-generation Boston chocolatier, have notes of caramel.

5. Veruca ($18 for a 3.2-oz. box) This silver-tinted milk chocolate variation from Chicago is molded to resemble ancient Judean coinage.

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